dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Aqua/Eau
2. Glycerin
3. Butylene Glycol
4. Ethoxydiglycol
5. Lactic Acid
6. Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
7. Sodium PCA
8. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
9. Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
10. Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
11. Sodium Hyaluronate
12. Tocopherol
13. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
14. Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
15. Polyacrylate-13
16. Propanediol
17. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
18. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
19. Polyisobutene
20. Methylpropanediol
21. Carrageenan
22. Pentylene Glycol
23. Glyceryl Polyacrylate
24. Caprylyl Glycol
25. Ethylhexylglycerin
26. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
27. Xanthan Gum
28. Polysorbate 20
29. Limonene
30. Sodium Hydroxide
31. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains alcoholContains animal-derived

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HUMECTANT

Butylene GlycolEthoxydiglycol

BUFFERING

Lactic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

ANTISTATIC

Sodium PCA

SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Other ingredients

Sophora Japonica Flower ExtractAscorbyl Methylsilanol PectinateSodium HyaluronateTocopherolDipotassium GlycyrrhizateAminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphatePolyacrylate-13PropanediolCitrus Grandis Peel OilHelianthus Annuus Seed OilPolyisobuteneMethylpropanediolCarrageenanPentylene GlycolGlyceryl PolyacrylateCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateXanthan GumPolysorbate 20LimoneneSodium HydroxidePhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethoxydiglycol; high-perf solv/humectant; low irrit, EU limit 20%, watch total PEG load

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Plant extract with mucilage and saponins; acts as skin emollient and conditioning agent.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Peptide actives for skin conditioning; typically used at low levels.

Sophora Japonica Flower Extract

Sophora flower extract for skin protection, common in soothing formulations.

Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate

Silicon-based Vitamin C derivative for antioxidant activity and viscosity control; superior stability compared to traditional Vitamin C, suitable for formulation.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Stable Vitamin C derivative; water-soluble antioxidant and brightener, solubility pH-dependent

Polyacrylate-13

Not decoded yet

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Polyisobutene

Inert film former and occlusive; increases viscosity, slippery feel, used in lipsticks

Methylpropanediol

Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.

Carrageenan

Natural thickener/gelling agent from red algae; high concentrations may cause discomfort for sensitive individuals.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Water-soluble film former at 1–5%; light feel, soluble in polyols, non-occlusive

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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