Hydrating · Conditioning · Soothing
Inulin
Inulin
菊粉
- INCI
- Inulin
- Family
- 多糖
- Typical use level
- 0.5–3%
- pH window
- 4.5–8.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
主要矛盾是溶解度而不是电荷。高聚合度(长链)菊粉冷水溶解度低,浓度偏高或存放温度下降时会缓慢结晶析出,水剂出现絮状白点或瓶底沉积,澄清度投诉多半出在它身上;做透明水剂必须选短链高溶解型号并控制上限用量。pH 低于 4 时果聚糖水解为果糖与低聚糖,益生元结构消失,并可能带来甜味、褐变与更多可被微生物利用的糖。与高浓度乙醇同用降低溶解度、加速析晶。高浓度多元醇会与它争夺水分,同样促进结晶。含果聚糖酶或转化酶活性的发酵提取物共存会将其分解。作为可发酵糖源,防腐体系不足时它会成为微生物的养料,这是它与其它增稠胶体最本质的不同。
Stability
干粉稳定但吸湿。溶液最怕低温存放析晶,冬储或冷链运输后出现浑浊、结晶是典型投诉,配方定型前必须做低温循环(如 5 ℃ 存放与冻融)考察,只做常温与高温会漏判。酸性加高温会水解并可能出现轻微褐变与气味变化。中性偏碱、常温条件下相对稳定。作为易被利用的碳源,必须搭配可靠防腐体系并通过防腐挑战,同时严格控制来料菌数与配制卫生;不要一边把防腐削到极限一边加高浓度菊粉。
Processing notes
用 60–70 ℃ 温水搅拌溶解,溶解完全后不要急着判断澄清度,必须冷到室温甚至放 5 ℃ 观察 24–48 小时,很多析晶在热态完全看不出来。溶解温度高于 80 ℃ 且体系偏酸会造成水解,反而影响后期色泽与气味。加入顺序放在水相溶解阶段,与其它糖类、多元醇分先后加入避免局部过饱和,含多元醇的配方建议先溶菊粉再加多元醇。放大生产要注意大锅降温慢且锅壁局部过冷,容易先在壁上析出,应控制降温速率并保持搅拌。与后生元、发酵液组合时二者都提高体系可利用营养,防腐体系要按最不利情况设计并做挑战试验。客户要做完全透明水剂时,先把菊粉的最高可用浓度做成上限曲线再定配方。
What it addresses
主要来自菊苣根的果聚糖,由果糖单元连接、末端带一个葡萄糖,聚合度从几到六十不等。水中不形成高黏度溶液,在配方里主要作为益生元概念的落点原料以及保湿与肤感调节组分,常与乳酸菌发酵物、后生元一起出现在皮肤微生态方向的配方中。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用,按目标市场规则复核;益生元相关表述属于宣称范畴,需另行评估证据支持,以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 03649
- Standard Chinese name
- 菊粉
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 5%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 4.88%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (03649)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (56723) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 菊粉,菊糖,菊苣根提取物来源果聚糖,Chicory Root Inulin,Cichorium intybus,Fructan
- CAS
- 9005-80-5
- Suits formats
- Essence · Toner · Serum · Lotion · Cream · Gel · Cleanser · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物根茎来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明并确认提取与干燥工艺助剂。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.