Hydrating · Conditioning · Barrier repair · Firming
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
水解小麦蛋白
- INCI
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
- Family
- 蛋白与肽
- Typical use level
- 1–5%
- pH window
- 4.0–7.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
与单宁类草本提取物络合起絮,现象同其它植物蛋白。洗护体系里若同时含高浓度阴离子表活与阳离子调理剂,三者容易形成过量凝聚物,表现为冲洗后发涩、长期使用堆积,必须按三元比例做窗口试验而不是两两试。高电解质与高乙醇会使其脱水析出。与染烫体系的过氧化氢、过硫酸盐同用会被氧化降解并产生明显异味,如果客户要做染烫配套线,这一组合必须单独验证。还有一个容易被忽略的点:市面上不少商品化牌号其实是水解小麦蛋白的阳离子化衍生物或复配物,这类衍生物的电荷性质、配伍规则和稳定性与普通水解小麦蛋白不同,不能照抄经验,报价与配方表上要写清具体是哪一种。
Stability
微生物营养源,防腐必须足量并做挑战测试。加热黄变与 pH 极端下继续水解的规律与大豆蛋白一致:超过 80℃ 长时间受热会明显加深颜色,pH 低于 3.5 或高于 9 会持续降解。长期高温储存时,黄变往往先出现在瓶口与液面接触空气的位置,做稳定性观察时要连同包材一起放,不要只放烧杯。冻融后可能轻微浑浊,需单列一组。
Processing notes
出海客户几乎必问麸质,所以开单前就要向供应商索取麸质残留检测数据(以 ppm 计)以及产线是否与含麸质原料共线的书面说明,把文件先备齐,否则打样后期一定卡在这里。帛卉的处理原则是把供应商检测报告原样转交品牌方,由品牌方按目标市场规则自行判断能否作无麸质表述,我们不代为下结论。如果品牌方明确要做无麸质方向,最省事的做法不是在小麦蛋白上做文件,而是直接换成水解豌豆蛋白或水解米蛋白。投料与其它水解蛋白一致:冷却到 45℃ 以下加入,先稀释再入锅,控制泡沫。洗护线放大生产时要注意,蛋白加入后体系粘度会下降,盐或增稠剂的用量必须在含蛋白的实际体系里重新标定,沿用空白基质的加盐曲线会导致成品粘度整批偏低。
What it addresses
小麦面筋蛋白水解后得到的多肽混合物,与毛发角蛋白亲和性好,是洗护线里用量最大的一类植物蛋白。较大分子量段在发丝表面成膜、改善梳理与湿发手感;较小分子量段更偏保湿方向。护肤配方里多用于即时的成膜紧致肤感方向,而不是长期作用方向。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 属常见已用于化妆品的植物蛋白方向,按现行原料目录与备案要求核对来源与规格,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟对水解小麦蛋白类原料设有与肽分子量相关的限制条件,不属于无条件常规使用,采用前必须逐项核对原料规格是否落在允许范围内,并在产品信息文件中保留分子量分布数据与供应商资料;具体条件以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向。小麦属主要食物致敏原之一,麸质相关的标签与客服口径必须在打样阶段就定下来,相关判断以供应商检测文件与最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚常规使用方向,部分买家同样会问询麸质检测数据,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 06363
- Standard Chinese name
- 水解小麦蛋白
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 8%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (06363)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (76681) · 功能 ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/307
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Listed (KR-2/1266) · 附录 2 限用 · 其他限用 · Maximum molecular weight average of the peptides in ingredients must be less than 3.5 kDa. · 化学名 Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ Protein hydrolyzates, wheat Glutens, enzyme- modified Wheat, ext., hydrol
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 小麦蛋白水解物,水解麦蛋白,小麦肽,Triticum vulgare,Wheat Peptide
- CAS
- 未确认
- Suits formats
- Cleanser · Lotion · Cream · Essence · Serum · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。麸质问题与 vegan 无关,需分开回答,不要混为一谈。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.