Conditioning · Barrier repair · Repair
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
木鲁星果脂
- INCI
- Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
- Family
- 植物油脂
- Typical use level
- 1–15%;发膜与膏体可到上限
- pH window
- 不适用(油相)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1)高月桂酸体系与部分乳化剂 HLB 不匹配会导致粗大结晶,肤感发沙;2)与大量液态油混配时冷却曲线不当会出现返粗(post-crystallization),放置两周后手感变硬;3)在低温灌装的水包油体系里易析出白点。
Stability
本身饱和度高,氧化稳定性好于多数液态植物油,常温避光即可。真正的稳定性风险不是酸败而是**晶型** —— 熔融后必须控制降温速率,必要时做回火(先降到结晶温度区保温再降温),否则货架上会返粗。
Processing notes
油相 75–80℃ 完全熔清,不留未熔颗粒;乳化后按配方要求降温,膏体类建议分段降温而不是一路快冷。做发膜时与阳离子调理剂的加入顺序要固定,顺序换了手感就变。
What it addresses
亚马逊棕榈科木鲁星果的种仁脂,月桂酸与肉豆蔻酸占比高,因此室温下是硬脂状,熔程接近体温。这一条决定了它的用法:发膜与唇膏里靠它给「上手硬、抹开化」的质感,而在轻薄乳液里加多了会返白起蜡感。产品册里的木鲁星果脂发膜就是这一味的主场。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 已收录于《已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)》第 04777 号「木鲁星果棕（ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU）籽脂」;目录载明最高历史使用量 淋洗类 10%、驻留类 10%(可作为简化版安全评估报告的证据类型,非法规限值);按备案要求填报,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 04777
- Standard Chinese name
- 木鲁星果棕（ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU）籽脂
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 10%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 10%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (04777)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (54634) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 穆鲁穆鲁脂,Murumuru butter
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Balm · Cream · Hair mask · Body lotion · Lipstick
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingSqualaneConditioning
- Imagery pendingArgania Spinosa Kernel OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingCamellia Oleifera Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingRosa Canina Fruit OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilAntioxidant
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.