academie Derm Acte

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Isononyl Isononanoate
3. Glycerin
4. Butylene Glycol
5. Octyldodecanol
6. Xylitylglucoside
7. Panthenol
8. Polymethylsilsesquioxane
9. Sodium Dextran Sulfate
10. Anhydroxylitol
11. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
12. Polyacrylate-13
13. Octyldodecyl Xyloside
14. Ethylhexylglycerin
15. PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
16. Propylene Glycol
17. Xylitol
18. Chlorphenesin
19. Polyisobutene
20. Mineral Oil
21. Lecithin
22. O-Cymen-5-Ol
23. Polysorbate 20
24. Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
25. Sodium Hyaluronate
26. Sorbitan Isostearate
27. Silica
28. Sodium Benzoate
29. Sodium Citrate
30. Citric Acid
31. Potassium Sorbate
32. Trisodium EDTA
33. Tocopherol
34. Sodium Metabisulfite
35. Xylose

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains PEGContains mineral oil

Formulation view A light emulsion base combining esters with polyols and panthenol for hydration. Siloxanes and methacrylate polymers create a matte, film-forming texture. The preservative system uses chlorphenesin and benzoates. Ideal for normal to combination skin seeking a lightweight feel. Notable observation: the blend of silicone and film-formers balances hydration with a quick-drying finish, providing an immediate visual effect without heavy occlusion.

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

ANTISTATIC

Isononyl IsononanoatePanthenol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HUMECTANT

Butylene GlycolXylitylglucoside

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Octyldodecanol

OPACIFYING

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Other ingredients

Sodium Dextran SulfateAnhydroxylitolMethyl Methacrylate CrosspolymerPolyacrylate-13Octyldodecyl XylosideEthylhexylglycerinPEG-30 DipolyhydroxystearatePropylene GlycolXylitolChlorphenesinPolyisobuteneMineral OilLecithinO-Cymen-5-OlPolysorbate 20Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-GlucanSodium HyaluronateSorbitan IsostearateSilicaSodium BenzoateSodium CitrateCitric AcidPotassium SorbateTrisodium EDTATocopherolSodium MetabisulfiteXylose

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Isononyl Isononanoate

Light, low-viscosity ester emollient; excellent spreadability, good for gels and light lotions

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Xylitylglucoside

Polyol humectant with high water absorption and fresh feel; often co-used with propylene glycol for enhanced hydration.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silicone polymer for emolliency, matte effect, and suspension; used in foundations or powder suspensions, typical usage 1-5%, smooth skin feel.

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Anionic thickener at 0.1-2% for gels; water-soluble, check compatibility with other ionic surfactants

Anhydroxylitol

Anhydrous xylitol, potent humectant; high hygroscopicity may cause stickiness at high levels.

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

MMA crosspolymer for durable water-soluble film; high doses may create occlusion

Polyacrylate-13

Not decoded yet

Octyldodecyl Xyloside

Non-ionic glucoside surfactant for cleansing and emulsification; mild, can substitute some syndet, 1–5%.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

W/O emulsifier for fatty acids; contains PEG, verify preservative compatibility.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Polyisobutene

Inert film former and occlusive; increases viscosity, slippery feel, used in lipsticks

Mineral Oil

Occlusive emollient preventing water loss; must use high-purity medical grade to avoid impurities.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Antioxidant and antimicrobial; low levels for preservation; irritating at high concentrations, restricted use.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

Modified glucan for thickening and cleansing aid; low irritation, suitable for most formulas

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Trisodium EDTA

Metal chelator improving formula stability and synergizing preservatives; used at very low levels (<0.1%), control heavy metals.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant/preservative at 0.05–0.2%; irritating for sensitive skin, avoid with oxidizers

Xylose

Low-MW humectant and fragrance carrier; <5% typical, blends with polyols for texture.

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