zelens Emulsion D

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Behenyl Alcohol
4. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
5. Glyceryl Stearate
6. Dimethicone
7. Panthenyl Triacetate
8. Ethyl Linoleate
9. Trehalose
10. Linoleic Acid
11. Linolenic Acid
12. Oleic Acid
13. Ceramide NS
14. Phospholipids
15. Methyl Cyclodextrin
16. 7-Dehydrocholesterol
17. Glycolipids
18. Glycine Soja Sterols
19. Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
20. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
21. Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice
22. Tocopherol
23. Propanediol
24. Ornithine
25. Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
26. Cholesterol
27. Lactobacillus
28. Palmitic Acid
29. Stearic Acid
30. Lecithin
31. Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
32. Hydrogenated Lecithin
33. Benzyl Alcohol
34. Carbomer
35. Sodium Dehydroacetate
36. Lauryl Alcohol
37. Levulinic Acid
38. P-Anisic Acid
39. Sodium Hydroxide
40. Myristyl Alcohol
41. Cetyl Alcohol
42. Oleyl Alcohol
43. Dehydroacetic Acid
44. Octyldodecanol
45. Maltodextrin
46. Citric Acid
47. Sodium Benzoate
48. Potassium Sorbate

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains alcohol

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

BINDING

Behenyl Alcohol

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Coco-Caprylate/CaprateGlyceryl StearateEthyl Linoleate

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

ANTISTATIC

Panthenyl Triacetate

Other ingredients

TrehaloseLinoleic AcidLinolenic AcidOleic AcidCeramide NSPhospholipidsMethyl Cyclodextrin7-DehydrocholesterolGlycolipidsGlycine Soja SterolsPerilla Frutescens Leaf ExtractAlpha-Glucan OligosaccharidePolymnia Sonchifolia Root JuiceTocopherolPropanediolOrnithineSaccharomyces Ferment Lysate FiltrateCholesterolLactobacillusPalmitic AcidStearic AcidLecithinInulin Lauryl CarbamateHydrogenated LecithinBenzyl AlcoholCarbomerSodium DehydroacetateLauryl AlcoholLevulinic AcidP-Anisic AcidSodium HydroxideMyristyl AlcoholCetyl AlcoholOleyl AlcoholDehydroacetic AcidOctyldodecanolMaltodextrinCitric AcidSodium BenzoatePotassium Sorbate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Panthenyl Triacetate

Panthenyl triacetate, antistatic and hair conditioning; hydrolyzes to panthenol

Ethyl Linoleate

Fatty acid ester emollient for dryness; prone to oxidation, requires light protection.

Trehalose

Trehalose; mild humectant and stabilizer for proteins/actives; hygroscopic, light skin feel.

Linoleic Acid

Essential fatty acid for barrier repair and hydration; oxidizes easily, high levels may be comedogenic

Linolenic Acid

Omega-6 fatty acid for barrier repair; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants and low light exposure

Oleic Acid

Oleic acid for emolliency/emulsification; high levels may increase skin penetration

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS for barrier repair; gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin.

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Methyl Cyclodextrin

Not decoded yet

7-Dehydrocholesterol

Cholesterol derivative for barrier repair and emulsion stability, watch concentration and light exposure.

Glycolipids

Cell membrane lipids mimicking skin barrier structure; used in repair formulations and biomimetic membranes

Glycine Soja Sterols

Plant-derived emollient and conditioner; high purity and suitable for sensitive skin

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Perilla leaf extract containing perillal, providing fragrance and mild soothing effects.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Prebiotic for microflora and smoothing; use 0.5-5%, suitable for sensitive skin

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Jerusalem artichoke root juice, rich in polysaccharides, moisturiser; natural, prone to spoilage, needs preservatives

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Ornithine

Amino acid derivative for keratolytic and humectant effects; used at low levels, minimal irritation

Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate

Yeast fermentation lysate filtrate rich in bioactive molecules for skin conditioning and hydration; assess allergenicity for sensitive skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Lactobacillus

Lactobacillus derivatives for skin conditioning; verify fermentation purity and safety.

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic acid for emulsification/emollient; solid fat, high melting point, occlusive.

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Modified inulin surfactant, mild emulsification/cleansing; prebiotic, reduced irritation

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Sodium dehydroacetate, preservative <0.5%; restricted for eye, children, and lip use.

Lauryl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol for emulsifying and thickening; low comedogenic, mild irritation possible on dry sensitive skin.

Levulinic Acid

Biodegradable organic acid acting as skin conditioner and perfume; pH adjuster, low irritation at typical use levels.

P-Anisic Acid

Fragrance/preservative booster; odorous, low usage, patch test recommended

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Myristyl Alcohol

Long-chain fatty alcohol for emulsion stability and conditioning; slippery feel, low sensitization, common in creams.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Oleyl Alcohol

Oleic acid derivative acting as emulsifier, thickener, and perfume; mild and low comedogenic risk, often paired with oleic acid.

Dehydroacetic Acid

Broad-spectrum preservative for acidic and oil-based systems; has concentration limits, requires challenge testing.

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

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