rationale #4 The Creme

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Octyldodecanol
3. Coco-Caprylate
4. C10-18 Triglycerides
5. Glycerin
6. Cetearyl Olivate
7. Jojoba Esters
8. Sorbitan Olivate
9. Hydrogenated Olive Oil
10. Propanediol
11. 1,2-Hexanediol
12. Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
13. Tocopherol
14. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
15. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
16. Lecithin
17. Butylene Glycol
18. Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
19. Disodium EDTA
20. Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil
21. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
22. Tocotrienols
23. Behenyl Alcohol
24. Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate
25. Mica
26. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
27. Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
28. Ceramide NP
29. Ceteareth-25
30. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
31. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
32. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
33. Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
34. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil
35. Juniperus Mexicana Oil
36. Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
37. Elaeis Guineensis Oil
38. Hydrogenated Lecithin
39. Pentylene Glycol
40. Sorbitol
41. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
42. Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
43. Magnesium Aspartate
44. Zinc Gluconate
45. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
46. Ethylhexylglycerin
47. Phenoxyethanol
48. Retinyl Palmitate
49. Arachidyl Propionate
50. Cetyl Alcohol
51. Panthenol
52. Ethyl Linolenate
53. Ceramide AP
54. Zea Mays Oil
55. Ceramide NG
56. Phytosphingosine
57. Banksia Serrata Flower Extract
58. Barklya Syringifolia Flower/Leaf Extract
59. Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract
60. Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
61. Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract
62. Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
63. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
64. Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract
65. Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract
66. Telopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf Extract
67. Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
68. Behenic Acid
69. Cholesterol
70. Copper Gluconate
71. Ceramide NS
72. Squalane
73. Glycine
74. Ethyl Linoleate
75. Serine
76. Glutamic Acid
77. Ceramide EOP
78. Ceramide EOS
79. Aspartic Acid
80. Leucine
81. Ethyl Oleate
82. Acetyl Hexapeptide-37
83. Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
84. Caprooyl Sphingosine
85. Alanine
86. Lysine
87. Arginine
88. Tyrosine
89. Phenylalanine
90. Proline
91. Threonine
92. Valine
93. Isoleucine
94. Histidine
95. Oligopeptide-1
96. Limonene
97. Citral
98. Linalool
99. Ci 77891
100. Ci 77491

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergensContains animal-derived

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

OctyldodecanolCoco-CaprylateC10-18 TriglyceridesCetearyl OlivateJojoba Esters

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Sorbitan Olivate

Other ingredients

Hydrogenated Olive OilPropanediol1,2-HexanediolOlea Europaea Fruit OilTocopherolSodium Acrylates CopolymerHelianthus Annuus Seed OilLecithinButylene GlycolOlea Europaea Oil UnsaponifiablesDisodium EDTASantalum Spicatum Seed OilCaprylhydroxamic AcidTocotrienolsBehenyl AlcoholPolyglyceryl-10 PentastearateMicaCitrus Aurantium Dulcis OilSodium Stearoyl LactylateCeramide NPCeteareth-25Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilCitrus Grandis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel OilLitsea Cubeba Fruit OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf OilJuniperus Mexicana OilPelargonium Graveolens OilElaeis Guineensis OilHydrogenated LecithinPentylene GlycolSorbitolCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilEugenia Caryophyllus Leaf OilMagnesium AspartateZinc GluconateTetrahexyldecyl AscorbateEthylhexylglycerinPhenoxyethanolRetinyl PalmitateArachidyl PropionateCetyl AlcoholPanthenolEthyl LinolenateCeramide APZea Mays OilCeramide NGPhytosphingosineBanksia Serrata Flower ExtractBarklya Syringifolia Flower/Leaf ExtractBrachychiton Acerifolius Flower ExtractCitrus Australasica Fruit ExtractDavidsonia Pruriens Fruit ExtractHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractSantalum Acuminatum Fruit ExtractTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit ExtractTelopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf ExtractTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractBehenic AcidCholesterolCopper GluconateCeramide NSSqualaneGlycineEthyl LinoleateSerineGlutamic AcidCeramide EOPCeramide EOSAspartic AcidLeucineEthyl OleateAcetyl Hexapeptide-37Caprooyl PhytosphingosineCaprooyl SphingosineAlanineLysineArginineTyrosinePhenylalanineProlineThreonineValineIsoleucineHistidineOligopeptide-1LimoneneCitralLinaloolCi 77891Ci 77491

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Coco-Caprylate

Coconut/caprylate ester for light emollient finish; balance with humectants.

C10-18 Triglycerides

Mixture of C10-18 triglycerides for emolliency, conditioning, and solvency; low comedogenic risk but occlusive.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cetearyl Olivate

Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba esters, light emollient ester, low comedogenic; sebum-like, excellent spreadability.

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Hydrogenated olive oil for emollience and viscosity; potential comedogenic, caution for oily skin

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Olive oil, rich in squalene and oleic acid; moderate comedogenicity, caution for oily skin.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Olive oil unsaponifiables; rich in squalene and vitamin E. Use at 1-2% for repair; stable.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil

Santalum spicatum seed oil; 0.5–2% oil phase; aromatic emollient, unsaturated fatty acids, store dark, low allergenicity

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels

Tocotrienols

Vitamin E isomer; potent antioxidant for lipid protection and UV synergy, light and heat sensitive.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate

Polyglyceryl ester for mild emollient/emulsifying; long-chain structure for rich feel.

Mica

Mineral colorant for pearlescence; heavy metal screening required

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Sweet orange oil; fragrance/antioxidant, contains furanocoumarins (photosensitizing), use at night or with SPF.

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier/stabilizer for O/W; control usage to prevent viscosity issues

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceteareth-25

Not decoded yet

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Litsaea cubeba fruit oil; distinct aroma, potential irritant; use as essential oil, label fully.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Mexican juniper essential oil for scent; high levels of essential oils are irritating.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Palm oil, emollient occlusive; saturated fats, moderate comedogenic risk.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Sorbitol

Polyol humectant with strong hygroscopy; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives; also a solvent or adjuster.

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Clove leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; irritant risk at high levels, restricted by EU.

Magnesium Aspartate

Magnesium aspartate; water-soluble chelant/conditioner. Use at 1-2%; check chelation efficiency.

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant and brightening; more stable than VC, oil-soluble, must pair with oil phase

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Arachidyl Propionate

Not decoded yet

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Ethyl Linolenate

Not decoded yet

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Zea Mays Oil

Corn oil; light emollient and stabilizer. Low comedogenic rating (1). Use at 2-5% as carrier.

Ceramide NG

Skin lipid repair ingredient to restore barrier; non-irritating, suitable for sensitive and compromised skin

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Banksia Serrata Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Barklya Syringifolia Flower/Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Roselle flower extract rich in anthocyanins, used for skin conditioning and antioxidant support

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Tea tree leaf extract for skin conditioning and perfuming; allergen risk requires dilution.

Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract

Santalum Album fruit extract, antioxidant-rich; typically for hair care, check allergen labeling

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Telopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; traditional lightening agent; antioxidant for uneven skin tone.

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid, emulsifier and thickener; high comedogenic rating, limit use on acne-prone skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Copper Gluconate

Copper gluconate; trace antioxidant/repair agent. Use <0.05%; high levels cause color change/irritation.

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS for barrier repair; gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Ethyl Linoleate

Fatty acid ester emollient for dryness; prone to oxidation, requires light protection.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Ceramide EOS

Barrier-repairing ceramide, 0.1–1%; optimal with hydrated lipids, suitable for dry skin

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Ethyl Oleate

Light emollient ester, fast absorption for oily skin; may contain fragrance traces

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37; peptide active for skin appearance and firmness. Control concentration for stability; protect with antioxidant system.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Plant-derived biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning; often formulated with other lipids.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Oligopeptide-1

Synthetic peptide for skin repair; small size allows permeation, limited clinical data.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide inorganic pigment and UV filter; assess inhalation risk for nano-forms and EU restrictions

Ci 77491

Iron oxides red; physical pigment. Coloring and photo-protective, stable and non-irritating.

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