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dermaceutic Turn Over

dermaceutic Dermaceutic Turn Over lists 18 ingredients on its label, 17 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

  1. Aqua
  2. Glycolic Acid
  3. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. Glycerin
  5. Cetearyl Alcohol
  6. PEG-40 Stearate
  7. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  8. Polysorbate 80
  9. Dimethicone
  10. Ammonia
  11. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
  12. Cholesterol
  13. Squalane
  14. Xanthan Gum
  15. Disodium EDTA
  16. Polysorbate 60
  17. Sorbitan Isostearate
  18. Octadecyl Di-T-Butyl-4- Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains parabensContains siliconesContains animal-derived

Formulation view Aqueous serum with glycolic acid as the main active, paired with glycerin and light esters. Cholesterol and squalane repair the lipid barrier; magnesium aluminum silicate absorbs oil. Ammonia adjusts pH; carbomer thickens. Suited for oily/combo skin to promote turnover. Formulator note: Ammonia is strong and odorous; strict concentration control is needed to ensure compatibility with the acidic system and prevent neutralization.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT
Aqua
BUFFERING
Glycolic Acid
FRAGRANCE
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
DENATURANT
GlycerinPolysorbate 80
SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
Cetearyl Alcohol
SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
PEG-40 Stearate
EMULSION STABILISING
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other ingredients

DimethiconeAmmoniaMagnesium Aluminum SilicateCholesterolSqualaneXanthan GumDisodium EDTAPolysorbate 60Sorbitan IsostearateOctadecyl Di-T-Butyl-4- Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Skim through

IngredientWhat it doesIrr. · Com.Rating
AquaSOLVENT0 · 0Green
Glycolic AcidBUFFERING2 · 0Green
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideFRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE0 · 0Green
GlycerinDENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT0 · 0Green
Cetearyl AlcoholSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, OPACIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
PEG-40 StearateSURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING0 · 2Green
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerEMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
Polysorbate 80DENATURANT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING0 · 0Green
DimethiconeANTIFOAMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING0 · 0Green
AmmoniaBUFFERING, FRAGRANCE · 限制 III/43 · –Yellow
Magnesium Aluminum SilicateABSORBENT, ANTICAKING, OPACIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
CholesterolSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING, LIGHT STABILIZER, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
SqualaneSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, REFATTING, SKIN CONDITIONING0 · 0Green
Xanthan GumBINDING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
Disodium EDTACHELATING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
Polysorbate 60SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING1 · –Green
Sorbitan IsostearateSURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING0 · 1Green
Octadecyl Di-T-Butyl-4- HydroxyhydrocinnamateNot decoded yet——

Ingredients explained

Aqua
Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin
Glycerin
Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
Cetearyl Alcohol
Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant
PEG-40 Stearate
Water-soluble emulsifier for O/W; mild cleansing, high levels may be comedogenic, caution for sensitive skin.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.
Polysorbate 80
Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer; watch for interaction with parabens
Dimethicone
Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin
Ammonia
Alkaline buffer in hair dyes; strong odor, avoid inhalation, concentration restricted
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Oil-absorbing powder at 5–20%; for pressed/powder makeup, high levels may feel heavy
Cholesterol
Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.
Squalane
Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture
Xanthan Gum
Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration
Disodium EDTA
Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy
Polysorbate 60
Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.
Sorbitan Isostearate
Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.
Octadecyl Di-T-Butyl-4- Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Not decoded yet

Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-21. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page

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