refa Expression Glossy Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Squalane
3. Octyldodecanol
4. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
5. Glycerin
6. Butylene Glycol
7. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
8. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
9. Cetearyl Alcohol
10. Dipropylene Glycol
11. Diisostearyl Malate
12. Hydrogenated Palm Oil
13. Ceteth-20
14. Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
15. Microcrystalline Wax
16. Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
17. Polysorbate 80
18. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
19. Ethylhexylglycerin
20. Glyceryl Caprylate
21. Xanthan Gum
22. Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
23. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
24. Sorbitan Oleate
25. Tocopherol
26. Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil
27. Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
28. Disodium EDTA
29. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
30. Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
31. Salvia Sclarea Oil
32. Isomalt
33. Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
34. Secale Cereale Seed Extract
35. Lavandula Stoechas Extract
36. Glycerylamidoethyl Methacrylate/Srylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
37. Dimethicone
38. Isohexadecane
39. Cetearyl Glucoside
40. Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer
41. Soluble Collagen
42. Lecithin
43. Argania Spinosa Sprout Cell Extract
44. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains mineral oilContains parabensContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains silicones

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

SqualaneOctyldodecanolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCetyl Ethylhexanoate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Other ingredients

Cetearyl AlcoholDipropylene GlycolDiisostearyl MalateHydrogenated Palm OilCeteth-20Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/HexarosinateMicrocrystalline WaxPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer DilinoleatePolysorbate 80Citrus Limon Peel OilEthylhexylglycerinGlyceryl CaprylateXanthan GumCitrus Nobilis Peel OilCitrus Grandis Peel OilSorbitan OleateTocopherolCupressus Sempervirens Leaf OilCananga Odorata Flower OilDisodium EDTACitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilPelargonium Graveolens Flower OilSalvia Sclarea OilIsomaltMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture ExtractSecale Cereale Seed ExtractLavandula Stoechas ExtractGlycerylamidoethyl Methacrylate/Srylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerDimethiconeIsohexadecaneCetearyl GlucosideAcrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate CopolymerSoluble CollagenLecithinArgania Spinosa Sprout Cell ExtractPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Synthetic oil providing slip; large molecule, low penetration, non-comedogenic, suitable for dry or rough skin.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Diisostearyl Malate

Diisostearyl malate; lightweight emollient and emulsifier; non-greasy feel, biodegradable, used in premium systems.

Hydrogenated Palm Oil

Emollient, emulsifier, and viscosity regulator; provides waxy structure, high levels may feel heavy.

Ceteth-20

Not decoded yet

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate

Waxy skin conditioner; adds gloss and emollience; non-comedogenic but heavy for oily skin.

Microcrystalline Wax

Petroleum-derived hard wax for lipsticks and ointments; provides high-melting structure, heavy feel, potentially comedogenic

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Bio-mimetic lipid ester for emulsification and texture; provides high slip and is suitable for silicone-free formulas.

Polysorbate 80

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer; watch for interaction with parabens

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Citrus essential oil; photosensitizing furanocoumarins present, limit daytime use; EU 26 allergen.

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Sorbitan Oleate

Non-ionic emulsifier for oil-in-water systems; plant-derived, check oxidative stability

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Ylang-ylang essential oil, natural fragrance; contains multiple allergens, restrict usage per EU regulations, avoid for sensitive skin

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Aromatic essential oil; contains allergens (citronellol, limonene), requires labeling.

Salvia Sclarea Oil

Clary sage oil, aromatic and tonic; contains ketones, limit usage to avoid irritation

Isomalt

Isomalt humectant; tacky at high levels, non-comedogenic, suitable for sugar-free formulas.

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Cell-culture apple extract for antioxidant skin conditioning

Secale Cereale Seed Extract

Rye seed extract; can act as mild abrasive when powdered, primarily used for conditioning and bulking.

Lavandula Stoechas Extract

French lavender extract rich in linalool; offers natural soothing aroma; requires allergen labeling when used as fragrance.

Glycerylamidoethyl Methacrylate/Srylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Not decoded yet

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Isohexadecane

Lightweight mineral-oil-derived emollient and solvent; low viscosity, non-comedogenic, improves texture

Cetearyl Glucoside

Gentle non-ionic sugar-based emulsifier for low-irritation formulas; often co-blended

Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Acrylate copolymer thickener; requires neutralization for viscosity stability

Soluble Collagen

Water-soluble collagen for hydration, film-forming, hair care; MW affects permeation/film

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Argania Spinosa Sprout Cell Extract

Not decoded yet

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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