Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Incompatibilities and failure points

OPC类通性照单全收:与蛋白、多肽、阳离子调理剂络合浑浊或沉淀;与铁离子显深色;pH高于6.5快速氧化变深;与高浓度电解质体系降低澄清度;与氧化性原料互相消耗。但这条记录最实际的一条不兼容是颜色:原料本身就是明显的红棕色,1%添加即可把白色乳霜带成米棕色,0.3%在透明精华里也已经是可见的琥珀色。也就是说它和任何要求浅色、透明外观的配方在物理上就是冲突的,这一条比化学配伍更常导致返工。

Stability

见光见氧逐步转深棕,pH上移与金属离子是主要加速因素,高温下的颜色变化不可逆。常见做法:pH控在4.0–5.5、加0.05–0.1%螯合剂、避光包材、后加料并缩短热停留时间。要提前说明的是,颜色随时间加深是这类原料的正常表现而不是失效,所以稳定性的验收口径必须在打样阶段就与客户约定ΔE上限或色卡范围,否则三个月留样出来一定有争议,而这类争议往往发生在已经备好包材之后。

Processing notes

先谈颜色再谈配方。开工前把0.1%、0.3%、0.5%、1%四个添加量的实物色卡做出来交客户确认,让客户在高添加加深色调和低添加加浅色之间做取舍,做完整支再返工的代价是包材和周期一起赔进去。工艺上粉体先在水或水/丙二醇中40℃以下预溶并过滤,乳化降温到40℃以下再投。如果配方必须保持浅色,可考虑改用微囊或包裹型规格,或者干脆把整个配方基调定成米色、杏色,把原料色变成设计语言。放大时注意原料本身的批间色泽差异,来料检验里要加一项色泽比对,不能只看含量。

What it addresses

主要为低聚原花青素(OPC)与酚酸类,是海岸松树皮的水或醇提取物,在配方中作为水相多酚抗氧化组分,欧美高端抗老线常用作有叙事价值的成分。规格按OPC含量分级,价格跨度大,来料规格书里要写清检测方法,否则不同供应商的数字没有可比性。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为化妆品原料常规使用,需确认原料收录状态与原料安全信息,并核对提取溶剂申报口径;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

欧盟框架下作为化妆品成分常规使用,安全评估需覆盖提取部位与溶剂;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

美国按化妆品管理常规使用,关注成分安全支持文件与标签准确性,以及设施与产品登记义务;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚主要市场普遍可用,需按各国原料目录与宣称管理制度逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

02711

Standard Chinese name

海岸松（PINUS PINASTER）树皮提取物

Max historical use, leave-on

7.8449%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (02711)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (86849) · 功能 ANTIOXIDANT

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

法国海岸松树皮提取物,滨海松树皮提取物,松树皮OPC,Maritime Pine Bark Extract,Pinus pinaster

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Cream · Lotion · Sheet mask · Gel

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做vegan主张;需确认载体与工艺助剂无动物源,清真需供应商出具证明。

Cost band

Premium

Evidence strength

高

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