Antioxidant · Barrier repair · Repair · Conditioning
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
沙棘果油
- INCI
- Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
- Family
- 植物油脂
- Typical use level
- 乳霜、精华常见 0.05–1%，上限由颜色而非成本决定；纯油类产品另议。以上为公开配方学常见添加区间，非法规限值。
- pH window
- 4.5–7.5
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Incompatibilities and failure points
① 最大的配伍冲突是颜色而不是化学：0.1% 就能把白霜带成明显杏色，0.5% 以上接近橙色，与二氧化钛/珠光配的浅色配方、以及任何要求「纯白卖相」的产品基本互斥。② 类胡萝卜素在 pH 4 以下与高氧条件下会先褪色再转暗褐，与高浓度 AHA/水杨酸精华同处会造成前后色差大到客户认为换了配方。③ 与高浓度抗坏血酸及其盐共存时颜色变化路径难以预测，浅色配方要先做长期色卡跟踪再决定是否组合。④ 与三乙醇胺等胺类中和体系、与阳离子护发体系共存易走黄褐化路径。⑤ 未螯合的金属离子会同时加速色素降解与油相氧化，螯合剂是必配项。
Stability
① 见光褪色快：透明包材在货架灯下几周即可肉眼看出变浅，深色瓶或不透光管是硬要求。② 70 ℃ 以上长时间保温会同时损失颜色与气味并使色泽变暗。③ 氧化倾向中偏高——果油不饱和度低于籽油，但类胡萝卜素本身就是氧化靶点，需 0.1% 级生育酚 + 螯合剂 + 控氧灌装。④ 染色是这支原料最容易被客诉的点，也是最容易被忽略的：即便千分之几的添加量，成品也会在毛巾、白色衣物、浅色浴室台面上留下橙色印记且不易洗掉，深色料在皮肤上停留几分钟也可见淡黄。这一点必须写进客户确认单并体现在产品说明里，不写清楚上市后必投诉。⑤ 产线同样会被染色：管道、泵、灌装嘴、密封圈会着色，橡胶与硅胶密封件基本洗不回原色。
Processing notes
① 冷补：降温到 40–45 ℃ 以下加入，边加边看颜色，颜色到位就停——不要按配方表死加百分比，不同批次色深差异可以大到肉眼可辨。② 当作色浆管理：每批来料先打 0.1% / 0.3% / 0.5% 三档色板，与首样色卡比对，用比例微调而不是固定用量，这是唯一能把批次色差压住的办法。③ 产线安排在浅色产品之后、深色产品之前；用完立即用辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯之类油相溶剂冲洗管路再走常规清洗，硅胶与橡胶密封件建议专用不混用。④ 灌装嘴与料桶专用，避免带色污染下一批浅色料。⑤ 打样阶段就把「会不会染衣服和毛巾」写进客户确认单，让品牌方在包装或说明书上体现，这一句话能省掉后面成批的退货争议。
What it addresses
由果肉（不是籽）压榨得到，特征是棕榈油酸 C16:1 比例很高，并富集类胡萝卜素与生育酚，因此呈深橙红色。用于补充皮肤脂质中较少见的单不饱和 C16:1 方向，同时在配方里兼作天然色泽与油相抗氧化补强。由于着色力极强，实务上应按「功能性着色油」设计用量，而不是当普通基础油。注意它与沙棘籽油（Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil）是两支原料：籽油颜色浅、亚油酸与亚麻酸为主，二者不能互换。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 作为植物油脂类原料常规使用；若在功能或宣传上按着色用途使用，需另按着色剂相关规则复核。按原料目录收录情况与备案资料要求核对，以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟按常规化妆品油脂原料处理；若实质承担着色功能，需按着色剂相关规则另行复核。以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国按化妆品成分常规使用；实质用作着色时须按着色剂相关规则复核。以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚可用，各地按当地原料目录、着色剂规则与标签规则复核；以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 05865
- Standard Chinese name
- 沙棘（HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES）果油
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 30%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (05865)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (82975) · 功能 SKIN PROTECTING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 沙棘果油,沙棘果肉油,醋柳果油,Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil,Hippophae rhamnoides
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Face oil · Cream · Lotion · Balm · Sheet mask · Stick
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源，通常可做 vegan；清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Premium
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
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- Imagery pendingArgania Spinosa Kernel OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingCamellia Oleifera Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingRosa Canina Fruit OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingButyrospermum Parkii ButterBarrier repair
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.