Soothing · Oil control · Antioxidant
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
金缕梅叶提取物
- INCI
- Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 水/丁二醇提取物 1–5%;含醇蒸馏液型可占水相 10–30%
- pH window
- 4.0–6.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
单宁类原料的典型翻车点,几乎都能在这一条上看到。1) 与阳离子调理剂直接絮凝:聚季铵盐-7/-10、瓜儿胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵等一旦与它混合,几秒内出现白色絮状物或拉丝沉淀,二合一洗发、护发素与阳离子调理型爽肤水要么避开,要么改用低单宁的脱色蒸馏液规格。2) 与水解蛋白、水解胶原、多肽形成不溶复合物,现场可能还清澈,静置三到七天后瓶底出现絮状沉降,含肽精华里加金缕梅是高频事故。3) 遇三价铁离子显色,水相由黄转紫黑;含铁氧化物颜料、碳钢或镀锌管道、非 316L 的取样勺与滤网都会带来色斑,必须配螯合剂。4) 与硫酸锌、葡糖酸铜、乳酸铜等金属盐活性物共存易变色。5) 蒸馏液型自带乙醇,总醇量超过约 15% 时卡波姆体系会明显稀化,透明凝胶需改用耐醇聚合物。6) 与阴离子表活可用,但会削弱起泡与泡沫细腻度,洁面加量需控制。
Stability
多酚见光遇氧氧化,水相颜色沿淡黄→琥珀→棕褐推进,pH 越高褐变越快,超过 6.5 时数周内就能肉眼看出差异,建议把体系锁在 4.0–5.5。常见防护做法是低 pH + 0.05–0.1% 螯合剂 + 避光或深色包材三件套,单靠其中一件通常不够。热稳定性一般,60°C 以上长时间保温会显著加深颜色并带出涩味,所以按后加处理。做透明玻璃瓶爽肤水时必须提前跑光照与 45°C 加速(建议 4–8 周),把「随时间变深」的色泽范围写进质量标准,而不是给客户一个单点色标;这条原料被判色差退货,九成不是变质,是当初没对齐色泽预期。原料本身偏酸,不同批次会把体系 pH 拉低 0.2–0.5,每批都要复测。
Processing notes
1) 严格按后加料处理:乳化完成、降温到 40°C 以下再投,不要跟着水相一起 85°C 保温。2) 投料前用配方内的部分水或丁二醇按 1:3–1:5 预稀释,再沿桶壁缓慢加入;直接把高浓度提取物倒进含高电解质的水相,会在接触面局部絮凝,形成后面搅不开的小颗粒。3) 与阳离子调理剂同配方时,先做小样并静置 48 小时确认无絮状再放大;要特别注意放大后的剪切强度更高,絮凝是更明显而不是更轻,小样勉强通过的组合放大必翻车。4) 全流程金属材质核对到位:主锅、管道、阀门、过滤网、取样器都要 316L,碳钢或铜件接触会直接显色。5) 蒸馏液规格含乙醇,投料时注意车间通风与闪点管理,并把这部分乙醇并入配方总醇量计算,别在标签和安全评估里漏算。6) 加完后复测并回调 pH,记录进批记录。
What it addresses
活性方向主要来自水解单宁(以金缕梅单宁为代表)与黄酮类多酚。单宁与皮肤表层蛋白结合后产生收敛的即时肤感,是欧美爽肤水、油痘线与湿巾配方里最常见的收敛骨架;多酚部分在体系中兼作抗氧化配角。选料时必须先分清两类完全不同的商品:一是含醇蒸馏液(hamamelis water),活性单宁很低但带明显醇感;二是水或丁二醇提取物,单宁含量高、收敛表现强,配伍风险也集中在这一类。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 作为植物提取物属常规使用方向,需确认原料已收录于国内已使用原料目录并取得原料安全信息码;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用方向;含醇蒸馏液型需按实际乙醇含量处理标示与通报口径;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 化妆品常规使用方向;收敛、控油类文案容易被写成疾病或治疗暗示,宣称需与法务复核;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚多为常规使用方向,部分市场对植物提取物有进口与备案资料要求;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 01253
- Standard Chinese name
- 北美金缕梅（HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA）叶提取物
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 0.15%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 0.015%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (01253)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (56500) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 金缕梅,美洲金缕梅,维吉尼亚金缕梅,巫榛,Hamamelis virginiana,Witch Hazel
- CAS
- 84696-19-5(以供应商 COA 复核)
- Suits formats
- Toner · Essence · Serum · Gel · Lotion · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;含醇蒸馏液型的清真认定需按乙醇来源与残留量单独评估,并要求供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.