acm Noviderm Melatrio

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate
4. Glyceryl Stearate
5. Dicaprylyl Carbonate
6. Tromethamine/Trometamol
7. Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
8. Sorbitan Stearate
9. Ceteareth-20
10. Ascorbyl Glucoside
11. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
12. Lactic Acid
13. Hexanediol
14. Laureth-23
15. Cetearyl Alcohol
16. Ceteareth-12
17. Parfum
18. Xanthan Gum
19. Tocopheryl Acetate
20. Arginine
21. Cetyl Palmitate
22. Cocoglycerides
23. Maltodextrin

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Di-C12-13 Alkyl MalateGlyceryl StearateDicaprylyl CarbonateHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Sorbitan Stearate

ANTIOXIDANT

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Other ingredients

Tromethamine/TrometamolCeteareth-20Undecylenoyl PhenylalanineLactic AcidHexanediolLaureth-23Cetearyl AlcoholCeteareth-12ParfumXanthan GumTocopheryl AcetateArginineCetyl PalmitateCocoglyceridesMaltodextrin

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate

Esther emollient to improve texture and gloss; low concentration, low comedogenic risk, no specific compatibility issues.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Light emollient solvent at 5–15%; mineral oil-free, refreshing feel, low sensitization.

Tromethamine/Trometamol

Not decoded yet

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Hydrog coco glycerides; waxy emollient; low irrit, low-mid comed, occlusive option

Sorbitan Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; hydrophobic, requires co-emulsifiers, inert at high purity

Ceteareth-20

Not decoded yet

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Hexanediol

1,6-Hexanediol; efficient solvent and preservative booster. May replace traditional preservatives. Mild sting at high levels.

Laureth-23

Not decoded yet

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Ceteareth-12

Not decoded yet

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Cetyl Palmitate

Waxy ester increasing viscosity and providing heavy feel; used as emulsifier carrier, low comedogenicity, strong occlusion.

Cocoglycerides

Coco-glycerides act as emulsifiers and skin conditioning agents; gentle, often used in soap-free formulations.

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.