Dermalogica acne biotic moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Salicylic Acid
2. Water/Aqua/Eau
3. Butylene Glycol
4. Propanediol
5. Niacinamide
6. Octyldodecanol
7. Ethylhexyl Olivate
8. Glycerin
9. Erythritol
10. Inulin
11. Cetearyl Olivate
12. Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
13. Lavandula Hybrida Oil
14. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
15. Salvia Sclarea Oil
16. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
17. Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
18. Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
19. Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract
20. Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
21. Piper Nigrum Seed Extract
22. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
23. Tocopherol
24. Xylitol
25. Squalane
26. Caprylyl Glycol
27. Lecithin
28. Glutamic Acid
29. Polyquaternium-80
30. Didecyldimonium Chloride
31. Methylpropanediol
32. Sorbitan Olivate
33. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
34. Citric Acid
35. Sodium Hydroxide
36. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
37. Caprylic Acid
38. Linalool
39. Limonene

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains alcohol

Formulation view BHA-powered moisturizer with 5% niacinamide to balance sebum. Uses oleate esters and jojoba esters mimicking skin lipids. Includes ferments and essential oils for microbiome support. Factory note: high BHA requires strict pH control to minimize irritation risks.

Key ingredients

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Salicylic Acid

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

SOLVENT

Propanediol

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Octyldodecanol

SKIN CONDITIONING

Ethylhexyl Olivate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

Other ingredients

ErythritolInulinCetearyl OlivateLavandula Angustifolia OilLavandula Hybrida OilCitrus Limon Peel OilSalvia Sclarea OilHydrolyzed Jojoba EstersMorinda Citrifolia Fruit ExtractLeptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf OilPhaeodactylum Tricornutum ExtractMagnolia Officinalis Bark ExtractPiper Nigrum Seed ExtractRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilTocopherolXylitolSqualaneCaprylyl GlycolLecithinGlutamic AcidPolyquaternium-80Didecyldimonium ChlorideMethylpropanediolSorbitan OlivateTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateCitric AcidSodium HydroxidePolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Caprylic AcidLinaloolLimonene

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Oleate ester emollient; light feel, high comedogenic rating, limit for acne-prone skin.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Erythritol

Polyol humectant with light feel; high hygroscopy, watch in dry climates.

Inulin

Plant fiber/prebiotic for moisturizing; fully dissolve to avoid crystallization

Cetearyl Olivate

Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Fragrance essential oil, 0.1–1%; contains allergens, patch test required.

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Essential oil for emollience and fragrance; contains allergens like linalool, requires EU 26 labeling

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Salvia Sclarea Oil

Clary sage oil, aromatic and tonic; contains ketones, limit usage to avoid irritation

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Lightweight emollient and film-former; improves hair slip, generally low concentration.

Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract

Morinda fruit extract containing phenolics, claimed for antioxidant and brightening effects; botanical extract variability requires strict internal QC standards.

Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil

Tea tree oil for tonic and antimicrobial effect. Highly irritating at high levels; dilute below 1% and screen for essential oil allergies.

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract

Marine algae extract for humectancy and soothing; check heavy metals and microbial limits.

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Magnolia bark extract with honokiol; antimicrobial and conditioning, use within safe effective range.

Piper Nigrum Seed Extract

Pepper seed extract for refreshment and tonic effects. Contains piperine-class compounds; high levels may cause tingering; caution for sensitive skin.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Rosemary leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; essential oil, allergen risk, limit usage

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Polyquaternium-80

Not decoded yet

Didecyldimonium Chloride

Not decoded yet

Methylpropanediol

Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Caprylic Acid

Medium-chain fatty acid with preservative boost and emulsification; distinct odor, irritant at high levels.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

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