Dermalogica acne biotic moisturizer
Dermalogica dermalogica acne biotic moisturizer lists 39 ingredients on its label, 37 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Salicylic Acid
- Water/Aqua/Eau
- Butylene Glycol
- Propanediol
- Niacinamide
- Octyldodecanol
- Ethylhexyl Olivate
- Glycerin
- Erythritol
- Inulin
- Cetearyl Olivate
- Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
- Lavandula Hybrida Oil
- Citrus Limon Peel Oil
- Salvia Sclarea Oil
- Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
- Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
- Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
- Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract
- Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
- Piper Nigrum Seed Extract
- Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
- Tocopherol
- Xylitol
- Squalane
- Caprylyl Glycol
- Lecithin
- Glutamic Acid
- Polyquaternium-80
- Didecyldimonium Chloride
- Methylpropanediol
- Sorbitan Olivate
- Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
- Citric Acid
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
- Caprylic Acid
- Linalool
- Limonene
Highlights
Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains alcohol
Formulation view BHA-powered moisturizer with 5% niacinamide to balance sebum. Uses oleate esters and jojoba esters mimicking skin lipids. Includes ferments and essential oils for microbiome support. Factory note: high BHA requires strict pH control to minimize irritation risks.
Key ingredients
- ANTI-SEBORRHEIC
- Salicylic Acid
- 溶剂
- Water/Aqua/Eau
- HUMECTANT
- Butylene Glycol
- SOLVENT
- Propanediol
- SMOOTHING
- Niacinamide
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- Octyldodecanol
- SKIN CONDITIONING
- Ethylhexyl Olivate
- DENATURANT
- Glycerin
Other ingredients
ErythritolInulinCetearyl OlivateLavandula Angustifolia OilLavandula Hybrida OilCitrus Limon Peel OilSalvia Sclarea OilHydrolyzed Jojoba EstersMorinda Citrifolia Fruit ExtractLeptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf OilPhaeodactylum Tricornutum ExtractMagnolia Officinalis Bark ExtractPiper Nigrum Seed ExtractRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilTocopherolXylitolSqualaneCaprylyl GlycolLecithinGlutamic AcidPolyquaternium-80Didecyldimonium ChlorideMethylpropanediolSorbitan OlivateTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateCitric AcidSodium HydroxidePolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Caprylic AcidLinaloolLimonene
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Salicylic Acid | ANTI-SEBORRHEIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, KERATOLYTIC, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/98 V/3 | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Water/Aqua/Eau | 溶剂 | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Butylene Glycol | HUMECTANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Propanediol | SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Niacinamide | SMOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Octyldodecanol | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ethylhexyl Olivate | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 5 | Green |
| Glycerin | DENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Erythritol | HUMECTANT, MOISTURISING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · – | Green |
| Inulin | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Cetearyl Olivate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SLIP MODIFIER | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Lavandula Angustifolia Oil | FRAGRANCE, TONIC · 限制 III/360 | 0 · – | Green |
| Lavandula Hybrida Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT · 限制 III/360 | 1 · – | Green |
| Citrus Limon Peel Oil | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, PERFUMING · 限制 III/353 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Salvia Sclarea Oil | FRAGRANCE, TONIC | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters | FILM FORMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil | TONIC | 3 · – | Green |
| Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract | HUMECTANT, SOOTHING | 0 · – | Green |
| Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract | ANTIMICROBIAL, SKIN CONDITIONING | — | Green |
| Piper Nigrum Seed Extract | REFRESHING, TONIC | 1 · – | Green |
| Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING | 1 · – | Green |
| Tocopherol | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Xylitol | ANTI-SEBORRHEIC, DEODORANT, HUMECTANT, FLAVOURING, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Squalane | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, REFATTING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Caprylyl Glycol | DEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lecithin | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glutamic Acid | ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Polyquaternium-80 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Didecyldimonium Chloride | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Methylpropanediol | SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sorbitan Olivate | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING | 0 · – | Green |
| Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate | CHELATING | 0 · – | Green |
| Citric Acid | BUFFERING, CHELATING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Hydroxide | BUFFERING, DENATURANT · 限制 III/15a | 3 · – | Green |
| Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 | EMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Caprylic Acid | CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, FRAGRANCE, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, PERFUMING | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Linalool | DEODORANT, PERFUMING · 限制 III/84 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Limonene | DEODORANT, SOLVENT, PERFUMING · 限制 III/88 III/167 III/168 | 1 · – | Yellow |
Ingredients explained
- Salicylic Acid
- Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.
- Water/Aqua/Eau
- Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.
- Butylene Glycol
- Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel
- Propanediol
- Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative
- Niacinamide
- Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity
- Octyldodecanol
- Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.
- Ethylhexyl Olivate
- Oleate ester emollient; light feel, high comedogenic rating, limit for acne-prone skin.
- Glycerin
- Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
- Erythritol
- Polyol humectant with light feel; high hygroscopy, watch in dry climates.
- Inulin
- Plant fiber/prebiotic for moisturizing; fully dissolve to avoid crystallization
- Cetearyl Olivate
- Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection
- Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
- Fragrance essential oil, 0.1–1%; contains allergens, patch test required.
- Lavandula Hybrida Oil
- Essential oil for emollience and fragrance; contains allergens like linalool, requires EU 26 labeling
- Citrus Limon Peel Oil
- Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance
- Salvia Sclarea Oil
- Clary sage oil, aromatic and tonic; contains ketones, limit usage to avoid irritation
- Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
- Lightweight emollient and film-former; improves hair slip, generally low concentration.
- Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
- Morinda fruit extract containing phenolics, claimed for antioxidant and brightening effects; botanical extract variability requires strict internal QC standards.
- Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
- Tea tree oil for tonic and antimicrobial effect. Highly irritating at high levels; dilute below 1% and screen for essential oil allergies.
- Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract
- Marine algae extract for humectancy and soothing; check heavy metals and microbial limits.
- Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
- Magnolia bark extract with honokiol; antimicrobial and conditioning, use within safe effective range.
- Piper Nigrum Seed Extract
- Pepper seed extract for refreshment and tonic effects. Contains piperine-class compounds; high levels may cause tingering; caution for sensitive skin.
- Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
- Rosemary leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; essential oil, allergen risk, limit usage
- Tocopherol
- Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light
- Xylitol
- Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.
- Squalane
- Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture
- Caprylyl Glycol
- Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol
- Lecithin
- Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.
- Glutamic Acid
- Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.
- Polyquaternium-80
- Not decoded yet
- Didecyldimonium Chloride
- Not decoded yet
- Methylpropanediol
- Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.
- Sorbitan Olivate
- O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.
- Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
- Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals
- Citric Acid
- Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care
- Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
- Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7
- Caprylic Acid
- Medium-chain fatty acid with preservative boost and emulsification; distinct odor, irritant at high levels.
- Linalool
- Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin
- Limonene
- Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-17. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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