cosmia Intense Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Propylene Glycol
3. Pentylene Glycol
4. Glycerin
5. Hydroxyethylcellulose
6. Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract
7. Glyceryl Behenate
8. Hydrogenated Palm Oil
9. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
10. Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
11. Squalane
12. Cholesterol
13. Ceramide NP
14. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
15. Behenyl Alcohol
16. Glyceryl Stearate
17. Stearic Acid
18. Palmitic Acid
19. Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
20. Cetyl Alcohol
21. 3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
22. Lecithin
23. Myristyl Alcohol
24. Lauryl Alcohol
25. Tocopheryl Acetate
26. Phenoxyethanol
27. Ethylhexylglycerin
28. Decylene Glycol
29. Xanthan Gum
30. 1,2-Hexanediol
31. Parfum

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Formulation view This serum features a multi-alcohol base with five ceramides, cholesterol, and squalane to mimic the skin's lipid barrier. Borago oil supplies GLA, while hydrogenated castor oil provides viscosity. The preservative system is simple, but fragrance sensitivity should be noted. Ideal for dry or compromised skin, focusing on barrier repair. Formulators value the lipid complex ratios.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

HUMECTANT

Propylene Glycol

SKIN CONDITIONING

Pentylene Glycol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

BINDING

Hydroxyethylcellulose

ANTIOXIDANT

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Glyceryl BehenateHydrogenated Palm Oil

Other ingredients

Glyceryl Stearate CitrateBorago Officinalis Seed OilSqualaneCholesterolCeramide NPButyrospermum Parkii ButterBehenyl AlcoholGlyceryl StearateStearic AcidPalmitic AcidSilybum Marianum Seed OilCetyl Alcohol3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidLecithinMyristyl AlcoholLauryl AlcoholTocopheryl AcetatePhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerinDecylene GlycolXanthan Gum1,2-HexanediolParfum

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Water-soluble cellulose ether for thickening and suspension stabilization; sensitive to ions, electrolytes reduce viscosity, use at pH 7-8.

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

Natural extract providing antioxidant activity; used as functional ingredient at low levels.

Glyceryl Behenate

Emulsifier and thickener with emollient properties; high melting point, low comedogenicity.

Hydrogenated Palm Oil

Emollient, emulsifier, and viscosity regulator; provides waxy structure, high levels may feel heavy.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Emulsifying stabilizer and emollient at 2–5%; provides creamy texture, check compatibility with anionic surfactants

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) rich oil; excellent for repair but prone to oxidation, requires antioxidants

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic acid for emulsification/emollient; solid fat, high melting point, occlusive.

Silybum Marianum Seed Oil

Milk thistle seed oil; silymarin-rich, antioxidant, high oil load, prone to oxidation

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

3-O-Ethyl ascorbate; water-soluble antioxidant, requires stabilization

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Myristyl Alcohol

Long-chain fatty alcohol for emulsion stability and conditioning; slippery feel, low sensitization, common in creams.

Lauryl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol for emulsifying and thickening; low comedogenic, mild irritation possible on dry sensitive skin.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Decylene Glycol

Multi-functional thickener and preservative booster, 0.1–0.5%; low viscosity, good compatibility

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

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