evdermia Caladerm Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Azelaic Acid
3. Propylene Glycol
4. Sodium Hydroxide
5. Zinc Oxide
6. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
7. Saccharide Isomerate
8. Arachidyl Alcohol
9. Glycerin
10. Salicylic Acid
11. Behenyl Alcohol
12. Arachidyl Glucoside
13. PEG-100 Stearate
14. Glyceryl Stearate
15. Phenoxyethanol
16. Bisabolol
17. Tocopheryl Acetate
18. Panthenol
19. Xanthan Gum
20. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
21. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
22. Silver
23. Allantoin
24. Parfum
25. Ethylhexylglycerin
26. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
27. Tocopherol
28. Phospholipids
29. Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
30. Citric Acid
31. Sodium Citrate
32. Benzyl Alcohol
33. Propyl Gallate
34. Gallyl Glucoside
35. Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains PEGContains mineral oilContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains alcohol

Formulation view Combines azelaic and salicylic acids with zinc oxide for physical protection. Fatty alcohol emulsions provide closure; centella and panthenol soothe. Suited for oily, blemish-prone skin. Formulator note: High acid concentration demands precise pH control; silver ions require purity to avoid metal interference.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

BUFFERING

Azelaic AcidSodium Hydroxide

HUMECTANT

Propylene GlycolSaccharide Isomerate

ANTIMICROBIAL

Zinc Oxide

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Arachidyl Alcohol

Other ingredients

GlycerinSalicylic AcidBehenyl AlcoholArachidyl GlucosidePEG-100 StearateGlyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanolBisabololTocopheryl AcetatePanthenolXanthan GumSodium Acrylates CopolymerHydrogenated PolyisobuteneSilverAllantoinParfumEthylhexylglycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed OilTocopherolPhospholipidsPolyglyceryl-10 StearateCitric AcidSodium CitrateBenzyl AlcoholPropyl GallateGallyl GlucosideEpigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Azelaic Acid

Acne and pigment agent; 15-20% can be irritating, needs controlled release or lower doses.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Zinc Oxide

Physical UV filter, 30% max in EU; oily at high levels, pair with oils for feel.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Arachidyl Alcohol

Waxy emulsion stabilizer and thickener, often paired with cetearyl alcohol; heavy feel, good for creams

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mild non-ionic emulsifier and emollient, PEG-free; co-soluble with stearoyl lactylates

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated polyisobutene; petroleum-derived lubricant forming breathable film; high purity, low irritation/comedogenicity.

Silver

Inorganic colorant/deodorant; subject to EU Limit IV/142; check heavy metal residues.

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate emulsifier; multi-source, mild, co-emulsifier

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Propyl Gallate

Oil-soluble antioxidant for oil stability; mild skin irritant.

Gallyl Glucoside

Gallate-derived glucoside as antioxidant and skin conditioner; use at low levels, avoid acidic matrix incompatibility.

Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside

Tea polyphenol analog; antioxidant & skin conditioning

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