graymelin Galactocera Return Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
3. Glycerin
4. Butylene Glycol
5. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
6. Betaine
7. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
8. Niacinamide
9. Glycosyl Trehalose
10. Cetearyl Alcohol
11. Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
12. Glyceryl Stearate
13. Squalane
14. Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
15. Dimethicone
16. Behenyl Alcohol
17. Polysorbate 60
18. Xanthan Gum
19. Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
20. Arachidyl Alcohol
21. Pentylene Glycol
22. Aspalathus Linearis Extract
23. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
24. Arachidyl Glucoside
25. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
26. Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
27. Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
28. Sorbitan Isostearate
29. Ceramide NP
30. PEG-100 Stearate
31. 1,2- Hexanediol
32. Caprylyl Glycol
33. Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
34. Panthenol
35. Hydrogenated Lecithin
36. Asiaticoside
37. Madecassic Acid
38. Asiatic Acid
39. Yucca Schidigera Root Extract
40. Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract
41. Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
42. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
43. Allantoin
44. Ethylhexylglycerin
45. Adenosine
46. Limonene
47. Linalool

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains siliconesContains PEGContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

HUMECTANT

Galactomyces Ferment FiltrateButylene Glycol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

ANTIMICROBIAL

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

HAIR CONDITIONING

Betaine

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

Other ingredients

Glycosyl TrehaloseCetearyl AlcoholHydrogenated Starch HydrolysateGlyceryl StearateSqualaneOlea Europaea Fruit OilDimethiconeBehenyl AlcoholPolysorbate 60Xanthan GumHydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerArachidyl AlcoholPentylene GlycolAspalathus Linearis ExtractGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractArachidyl GlucosideDipotassium GlycyrrhizateDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerDimethicone/PEG-10/15 CrosspolymerSorbitan IsostearateCeramide NPPEG-100 Stearate1,2- HexanediolCaprylyl GlycolLauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl DimethiconePanthenolHydrogenated LecithinAsiaticosideMadecassic AcidAsiatic AcidYucca Schidigera Root ExtractCommiphora Myrrha Resin ExtractPerilla Frutescens Leaf ExtractCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilAllantoinEthylhexylglycerinAdenosineLimoneneLinalool

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Galactomyces ferment filtrate humectant; complex matrix, assess allergens and stability.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 alkyl benzoate; emollient, emulsifier, and antistatic; aids stability and smoothness, moderate low comedogenicity.

Betaine

Betaine for mild moisturizing/surfactant; low concentration 1-2% common, high may irritate.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Glycosyl Trehalose

Glycosylated trehalose to enhance skin tolerance and moisture retention; acts as a film former.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Humectant for hydration and film formation; 1-5%, monitor microbial contamination

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Olive oil, rich in squalene and oleic acid; moderate comedogenicity, caution for oily skin.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Water-soluble polymer providing slip and conditioning; biodegradable and well-compatible

Arachidyl Alcohol

Waxy emulsion stabilizer and thickener, often paired with cetearyl alcohol; heavy feel, good for creams

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Aspalathus Linearis Extract

Rooibos tea extract with high antioxidant capacity; soothing, no known irritation

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mild non-ionic emulsifier and emollient, PEG-free; co-soluble with stearoyl lactylates

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Crosslinked silicone thickener at 0.5-2%; silky/matte feel, non-comedogenic, partial oil phase incompatibility, use co-solvent/pre-emulsification.

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

Silicone/PEG crosspolymer for film forming and viscosity; low irritation; PEG debate at high conc

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

1,2- Hexanediol

Humectant and preservative booster with light feel; commonly used at 1-3%.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Silicone surfactant at 1–5%; for hair/cleansing, provides smoothness

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Asiaticoside

Plant glycoside, healing and antioxidant; poor solubility, use low levels with solubilizers.

Madecassic Acid

Madecassoside hydrolysis product for barrier repair and anti-inflammatory action; mild, low typical usage

Asiatic Acid

Pro-healing active, 0.1–1%; stability affected by light, store protected from light.

Yucca Schidigera Root Extract

Yucca schidigera root extract, natural anti-inflammatory and skin conditioning

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Myrrh resin extract, anti-inflammatory/soothing; natural impurities, verify allergenicity and stability

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Perilla leaf extract containing perillal, providing fragrance and mild soothing effects.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

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