cellderma Youth Restore

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Niacinamide
3. Glycerin
4. Acacia Senegal Gum
5. Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum
6. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
7. Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
8. Pca
9. Sodium PCA
10. SH-Oligopeptide-1
11. SH-Oligopeptide-2
12. SH-Polypeptide-1
13. SH-Polypeptide-11
14. SH-Polypeptide-9
15. Sodium Hyaluronate
16. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
17. Arginine
18. Aspartic Acid
19. Acetyl Glutamine
20. Lecithin
21. Carnitine
22. Alanine
23. Glycine
24. Histidine
25. Isoleucine
26. Phenylalanine
27. Proline
28. Serine
29. Threonine
30. Valine
31. Caffeine
32. Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
33. Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
34. Bacillus/Soybean/Folic Acid Ferment Extract
35. Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract
36. Codonopsis Lanceolata Flower Extract
37. Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Extract
38. Chrysanthemum Morifolium Extract
39. Digitalis Purpurea Flower Extract
40. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
41. Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract
42. Polygonatum Odoratum Extract
43. Sodium Lactate
44. Polyglutamic Acid
45. Xanthan Gum
46. Butylene Glycol
47. 1,2-Hexanediol
48. Citric Acid
49. Caprylyl Glycol
50. Sodium Benzoate
51. Sodium Levulinate
52. Potassium Sorbate
53. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

DENATURANT

Glycerin

FILM FORMING

Acacia Senegal Gum

ANTIMICROBIAL

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

FRAGRANCE

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

HUMECTANT

Pca

ANTISTATIC

Sodium PCA

Other ingredients

Hydrolyzed Rhizobian GumSH-Oligopeptide-1SH-Oligopeptide-2SH-Polypeptide-1SH-Polypeptide-11SH-Polypeptide-9Sodium HyaluronateAcetyl Hexapeptide-8ArginineAspartic AcidAcetyl GlutamineLecithinCarnitineAlanineGlycineHistidineIsoleucinePhenylalanineProlineSerineThreonineValineCaffeineRuscus Aculeatus Root ExtractChenopodium Quinoa Seed ExtractBacillus/Soybean/Folic Acid Ferment ExtractCitrus Reticulata Peel ExtractCodonopsis Lanceolata Flower ExtractCoix Lacryma-Jobi Seed ExtractChrysanthemum Morifolium ExtractDigitalis Purpurea Flower ExtractGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractPaeonia Albiflora Flower ExtractPolygonatum Odoratum ExtractSodium LactatePolyglutamic AcidXanthan GumButylene Glycol1,2-HexanediolCitric AcidCaprylyl GlycolSodium BenzoateSodium LevulinatePotassium SorbatePhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Acacia Senegal Gum

Natural film-former and fragrance agent; used for viscosity or film, check purity for allergens

Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum

Not decoded yet

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Plant extract, soothing properties; contains natural allergens, high levels may irritate.

Pca

Proline carboxylic acid, NMF component; humectant, generally low irritation but may sensitise.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

SH-Oligopeptide-1

Synthetic short oligopeptide for skin conditioning; generally low irritancy and comedogenicity

SH-Oligopeptide-2

Not decoded yet

SH-Polypeptide-1

Not decoded yet

SH-Polypeptide-11

Not decoded yet

SH-Polypeptide-9

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl hexapeptide-8; signal peptide, low concentration, used for firming and hydration, low irritancy.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Acetyl Glutamine

Acetylated glutamine; barrier repair and soothing, suitable for acute or sensitive skin

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Carnitine

Carnitine, used in cleansers as foam booster and conditioner; water-soluble, mild.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract

Plant extract with polysaccharides and flavonoids; for firming and anti-irritation, < 1%.

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Quinoa seed extract, protein/polypeptide conditioner; water-soluble, check charge interactions with actives.

Bacillus/Soybean/Folic Acid Ferment Extract

Not decoded yet

Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract

Citrus peel extract containing photosensitizing compounds; handle with care to avoid photo-reactions, subject to EU restrictions.

Codonopsis Lanceolata Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Extract

Coix seed extract with polysaccharides for hydration and skin texture.

Chrysanthemum Morifolium Extract

Not decoded yet

Digitalis Purpurea Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Paeonia Albiflora Flower Extract

White peony flower extract used for tonic and conditioning properties; gentle with no public irritancy or comedogenic data.

Polygonatum Odoratum Extract

Not decoded yet

Sodium Lactate

Sodium lactate for moisturizing and exfoliation; pH buffering agent

Polyglutamic Acid

Natural-derived polypeptide for hydration and skin conditioning; often used for long-lasting moisture

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium levulinate, natural-derived humectant; generally mild, often used in blends.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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