Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment

Incompatibilities and failure points

阳离子聚合物与阳离子表活会与阴离子多糖形成复合物,轻则增稠失控,重则絮凝出丝。高浓度电解质会使体系粘度骤降。与卡波、黄原胶等增稠体系叠加时,粘度贡献互相放大,原有流变曲线完全不再适用,必须重新配平。高浓度乙醇会使多糖析出。pH 低于 3 长期储存会缓慢降解多糖,表现为粘度下降与膜感消失。在清洁类配方里与高浓度阴离子表活同用会产生拉丝感和冲洗后的假滑。

Stability

多糖类的典型问题是储存期粘度漂移:高温下粘度缓慢下降,低温下可能凝胶化或返稠。反复冻融容易相分离析水。见光影响较小,但遇氧与微生物污染影响很大——多糖是优良碳源,防腐一旦不足就会出现拉丝、变味、pH 下跌。常见防护:pH 控制在 4.5–6.5、加螯合剂、防腐挑战做完整版、储存期跟踪粘度曲线而不只看外观是否分层。

Processing notes

粘度贡献显著,做配方时必须把它算进增稠总量:先把它加进去,再定增稠剂用量,不要先做好基质再补它,那样几乎一定做过头。建议 50℃ 以下加入,长时间高温加搅拌会剪切降解多糖,粘度和膜感一起丢。加入时低速搅拌,高剪切均质会明显降粘。放大生产的典型坑是设备剪切条件不同:小试用高剪切均质、大罐用低速桨叶,同一配方在两边做出的稠度会明显不同,必须按量产设备的剪切条件重新配平流变,并在工艺文件里写死搅拌转速与时长。喷雾头、滴管、细口泵头这类出料通道窄的包材,要单独做拉丝与堵头测试。

What it addresses

出芽短梗霉发酵得到的含 β-葡聚糖类多糖的水相料。它在皮肤表面形成连续的水合膜,带来收干后的紧绷回弹肤感,在配方中既是功能料也是明显的流变贡献者,常用于保湿与舒缓方向,以及「即时膜感紧致」的肤感设计。

Market direction

中国 / CN

发酵多糖类常用原料,按已使用原料目录与备案要求核对菌株来源与规格;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用方向,需完成安全评估与成分申报,微生物来源须提供菌株与工艺说明;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

常规使用方向,按目标市场规则复核标签与宣称边界;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩与东南亚普遍使用,按各自原料目录与进口要求逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

01667

Standard Chinese name

出芽短梗霉发酵产物

Max historical use, rinse-off

60%

Max historical use, leave-on

0.00256%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (01667)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (54646) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

黑酵母发酵液,β-葡聚糖发酵物,Aureobasidium pullulans

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Gel · Sheet mask · Lotion · Cream

Halal and vegan

微生物发酵来源,培养基不含动物源时通常可做 vegan,须供应商出具培养基声明;清真需供应商出具证明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

中

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