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Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
2. Propanediol
3. Glycerin
4. Niacinamide
5. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
6. Bifida Ferment Lysate
7. Water
8. 1-2-Hexanediol
9. Polysorbate 20
10. Ascorbyl Glucoside
11. 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
12. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
13. Panthenol
14. Resveratrol
15. Tocopherol
16. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
17. Polyglutamic Acid
18. Arbutin
19. Adenosine
20. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
21. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
22. Squalane
23. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
24. Oenothera Biennis Oil
25. Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
26. Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
27. Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
28. Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
29. Glycolipids
30. Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
31. Hydroxyethylcellulose
32. Xanthan Gum
33. Butylene Glycol
34. Disodium EDTA
35. Pantolactone
36. Carbomer
37. Tromethamine
38. Ethylhexylglycerin
39. Fragrance

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains PEGContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains fragrance

Key ingredients

SKIN CONDITIONING

Betula Platyphylla Japonica JuiceBifida Ferment Lysate

SOLVENT

Propanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

HUMECTANT

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polysorbate 20

Other ingredients

1-2-HexanediolAscorbyl Glucoside3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAscorbyl TetraisopalmitatePanthenolResveratrolTocopherolHydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidPolyglutamic AcidArbutinAdenosinePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7SqualaneSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilOenothera Biennis OilVitis Vinifera Seed OilRosa Canina Fruit OilRicinus Communis Seed OilAnanas Sativus Fruit ExtractGlycolipidsPolyglyceryl-10 OleateHydroxyethylcelluloseXanthan GumButylene GlycolDisodium EDTAPantolactoneCarbomerTromethamineEthylhexylglycerinFragrance

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Birch juice NMF 0.5-5%; aqueous, check preservatives & sugars

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Galactomyces ferment filtrate humectant; complex matrix, assess allergens and stability.

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Bifida lysate for skin conditioning; low usage, suits sensitive skin

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

1-2-Hexanediol

Not decoded yet

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Water-soluble Vitamin C derivative; more stable than ascorbic acid, sensitive to metals and alkali.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Resveratrol

Potent polyphenol antioxidant <1%; light-sensitive, needs antioxidants/chelators

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Low-MW humectant with superior penetration vs high-MW; 0.1-0.5% typical, hygroscopic, store dry to prevent clumping.

Polyglutamic Acid

Natural-derived polypeptide for hydration and skin conditioning; often used for long-lasting moisture

Arbutin

Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; typical use 1-2%, comply with EU restrictions on specific arbutins.

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for repair; requires lipid carrier, unstable in aqueous phase

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 boosts collagen; use 0.1–1%, formulate with lipid carriers

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Natural oil rich in GLA; supports barrier, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Grapeseed oil, lightweight emollient and antioxidant; high linoleic acid, suitable for oily and combination skin.

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Rosehip oil, rich in oleic/linoleic acids for emolliency/repair; prone to oxidation, needs protection

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Castor oil for heavy moisturization and film formation; high viscosity, high levels may be comedogenic, blend with other oils.

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Pineapple extract with protease and Vit C; mild AHA exfoliant; may irritate at high levels, use caution.

Glycolipids

Cell membrane lipids mimicking skin barrier structure; used in repair formulations and biomimetic membranes

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Mild emulsifier and emollient; 1-3%, suitable for sensitive skin formulations

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Water-soluble cellulose ether for thickening and suspension stabilization; sensitive to ions, electrolytes reduce viscosity, use at pH 7-8.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Pantolactone

Pantolactone, humectant; hydrolyzes to release panthenol, improves skin hydration, low level use, high safety

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Tromethamine

pH adjuster, alkaline; precise dosing required

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

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