dermaceutic Active Retinol 0.5

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Diglycerin
3. Trideceth-9
4. Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
5. Panthenol
6. Retinol
7. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
8. Ascorbyl Palmitate
9. Tocopherol
10. Allantoin
11. Cholesterol
12. Sphingolipids
13. Phospholipids
14. Lecithin
15. Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
16. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
17. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
18. Phenoxyethanol
19. Polysorbate 20
20. Ethylhexylglycerin
21. Disodium EDTA
22. T-Butyl Alcohol
23. BHT
24. Potassium Sorbate
25. BHA
26. Citric Acid
27. Glyceryl Stearate
28. Glyceryl Oleate
29. Sodium Citrate
30. Sodium Hydroxide

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains mineral oilContains PEGContains alcohol

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

HUMECTANT

Diglycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING

Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

ANTISTATIC

Panthenol

SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III

Retinol

ANTIOXIDANT

Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateAscorbyl PalmitateTocopherol

Other ingredients

Trideceth-9AllantoinCholesterolSphingolipidsPhospholipidsLecithinHydrogenated Palm Glycerides CitratePolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20EthylhexylglycerinDisodium EDTAT-Butyl AlcoholBHTPotassium SorbateBHACitric AcidGlyceryl StearateGlyceryl OleateSodium CitrateSodium Hydroxide

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Diglycerin

Diglycerin humectant and conditioner; low viscosity suitable for liquid formulas, very low irritancy.

Trideceth-9

Not decoded yet

Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

Chemical UVB sunscreen agent, requires UVA pairing; potential allergen, strict concentration control needed for sensitive skin.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Sphingolipids

Biomimetic membrane lipids for repairing skin barrier and stratum corneum; highly effective for barrier impairment

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate emollient for smoothness and richness.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

T-Butyl Alcohol

Fast-evaporating solvent; sharp odor and potential irritation at high levels, limit usage

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

BHA

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Glyceryl Oleate

Glyceride-based emulsifier and emolient with mild perfuming properties.

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

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