dermalogica Prisma Protect SPF30

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Aqua/Eau
2. Homosalate
3. Octocrylene
4. Silica
5. Butylene Glycol
6. Ethylhexyl Salicylate
7. Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
8. Coconut Alkanes
9. Dimethicone
10. Glycerin
11. Dimethyl Capramide
12. Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
13. Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
14. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
15. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
16. Saccharide Isomerate
17. Zingiber Officinale Root Oil
18. Sclareolide
19. Tocopherol
20. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
21. Tocopheryl Acetate
22. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
23. Glyceryl Stearate SE
24. PEG-100 Stearate
25. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
26. Arachidyl Alcohol
27. Dimethicone Crosspolymer
28. Behenyl Alcohol
29. Benzyl Alcohol
30. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
31. Xanthan Gum
32. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
33. Arachidyl Glucoside
34. Ethylhexylglycerin
35. Methicone
36. Sodium Hydroxide
37. Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
38. Citric Acid
39. Sodium Citrate
40. Caprylyl Glycol
41. Propanediol
42. Geraniol
43. Limonene
44. Citral
45. Polyvinyl Alcohol
46. Sodium Benzoate
47. Potassium Sorbate
48. 1,2-Hexanediol
49. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains siliconesContains PEGContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains alcohol

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

FRAGRANCE

Homosalate

LIGHT STABILIZER

OctocryleneEthylhexyl SalicylateButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

ABRASIVE

Silica

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Coconut Alkanes

Other ingredients

DimethiconeGlycerinDimethyl CapramidePolyglyceryl-2 StearateVp/Eicosene CopolymerChlorella Vulgaris ExtractPalmitoyl OligopeptideSaccharide IsomerateZingiber Officinale Root OilSclareolideTocopherolCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractTocopheryl AcetateCoco-Caprylate/CaprateGlyceryl Stearate SEPEG-100 StearatePotassium Cetyl PhosphateArachidyl AlcoholDimethicone CrosspolymerBehenyl AlcoholBenzyl AlcoholCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideXanthan GumAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerArachidyl GlucosideEthylhexylglycerinMethiconeSodium HydroxideTrisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateCitric AcidSodium CitrateCaprylyl GlycolPropanediolGeraniolLimoneneCitralPolyvinyl AlcoholSodium BenzoatePotassium Sorbate1,2-HexanediolPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Homosalate

UVB sunscreen agent, often combined with others; stable but migratory; ensure regulatory compliance.

Octocrylene

UV-B absorber and photostabilizer; has concentration limits, consider potential coral toxicity and allergenicity for specific groups.

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl salicylate, UVB absorber; volatile, requires combination with UVA filters for broad spectrum.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

High-potency UVA filter (Parsol MXX); requires stabilizers and UVB blockers.

Coconut Alkanes

Coconut alkanes as solvents/emollients with medium volatility; check oxidation stability.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Dimethyl Capramide

Not decoded yet

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier; mild, non-ionic, suitable for O/W emulsions with good stability.

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Water-soluble film former and thickener; no known irritancy or comedogenic issues.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptide for firming; water-soluble bioactive peptide, avoid high heat, functional additive.

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Zingiber Officinale Root Oil

Ginger root oil for fragrance; contains gingerols, irritant, use very low concentration, avoid for sensitive skin.

Sclareolide

Gentle woody fragrance molecule for scent and skin conditioning; listed EU allergen

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.

Glyceryl Stearate SE

Emulsifier at 1–3%; oil-phase ingredient, easy emulsification, low sensitization.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl phosphate potassium, O/W emulsifier; pH-sensitive, often requires buffering.

Arachidyl Alcohol

Waxy emulsion stabilizer and thickener, often paired with cetearyl alcohol; heavy feel, good for creams

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Crosslinked silicone polymer providing silkiness and viscosity control; for hair and skin; inert but hard to biodegrade.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mild non-ionic emulsifier and emollient, PEG-free; co-soluble with stearoyl lactylates

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Methicone

Volatile silicone offering slip and antistatic properties; inert at high purity, check cyclic isomer limits

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Mild chelator replacing EDTA; water-soluble, very low irritation, stabilizes metal ions

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Film/viscosity agent for masks/cleansers; water-soluble, forms flexible film

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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