espa Optimal Skin ProMoisturiser

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Coconut Alkanes
3. Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
4. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
5. Inulin
6. Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
7. Pectin
8. Xylitylglucoside
9. Cetyl Alcohol
10. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
11. Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
12. Propanediol
13. Ethylhexyl Palmitate
14. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
15. Glyceryl Stearate
16. Anhydroxylitol
17. Phenoxyethanol
18. Stearyl Alcohol
19. Glycerin
20. Jojoba Esters
21. Behenic Acid
22. Cetyl Behenate
23. Isostearyl Isostearate
24. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
25. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
26. Xylitol
27. Limonene
28. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
29. Sclerotium Gum
30. Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
31. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
32. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
33. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
34. Benzoic Acid
35. Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
36. Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
37. Dehydroacetic Acid
38. Alaria Esculenta Extract
39. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
40. Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
41. Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
42. Linalool
43. Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract
44. Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
45. Silica Dimethyl Silylate
46. Ethylhexylglycerin
47. Sorbitol
48. Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
49. Sodium Benzoate
50. Butylene Glycol
51. Pentylene Glycol
52. Lactic Acid
53. Lecithin
54. Ascorbic Acid
55. Calcium Gluconate
56. Citric Acid
57. Gluconolactone
58. Potassium Sorbate
59. Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
60. Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
61. Sodium Hyaluronate
62. Xanthan Gum
63. Caprylyl Glycol
64. Glucose
65. Tocopheryl Acetate
66. Citronellol
67. Benzyl Benzoate
68. Glyceryl Linoleate
69. Glyceryl Linolenate
70. Disodium EDTA
71. Retinyl Palmitate
72. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
73. Glyceryl Caprylate
74. Oleic Acid
75. Iron Oxides

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains silicones

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Coconut Alkanes

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-6 DistearatePolyglyceryl-2 Stearate

HAIR CONDITIONING

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

SKIN CONDITIONING

Inulin

BINDING

Pectin

HUMECTANT

Xylitylglucoside

Other ingredients

Cetyl AlcoholCoco-Caprylate/CapratePlukenetia Volubilis Seed OilPropanediolEthylhexyl PalmitateCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlyceryl StearateAnhydroxylitolPhenoxyethanolStearyl AlcoholGlycerinJojoba EstersBehenic AcidCetyl BehenateIsostearyl IsostearatePotassium Cetyl PhosphateHelianthus Annuus Seed OilXylitolLimoneneCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilSclerotium GumPolyglyceryl-3 BeeswaxAlpha-Glucan OligosaccharideCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilBenzoic AcidCedrus Atlantica Bark OilCitrus Nobilis Peel OilDehydroacetic AcidAlaria Esculenta ExtractRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractLonicera Caprifolium Flower ExtractLonicera Japonica Flower ExtractLinaloolAsparagus Officinalis Stem ExtractMyrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem ExtractSilica Dimethyl SilylateEthylhexylglycerinSorbitolHydrolyzed Yeast ProteinSodium BenzoateButylene GlycolPentylene GlycolLactic AcidLecithinAscorbic AcidCalcium GluconateCitric AcidGluconolactonePotassium SorbateJasminum Officinale Flower ExtractRosa Damascena Flower OilSodium HyaluronateXanthan GumCaprylyl GlycolGlucoseTocopheryl AcetateCitronellolBenzyl BenzoateGlyceryl LinoleateGlyceryl LinolenateDisodium EDTARetinyl PalmitateSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateGlyceryl CaprylateOleic AcidIron Oxides

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Coconut Alkanes

Coconut alkanes as solvents/emollients with medium volatility; check oxidation stability.

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Non-ionic emulsifier; mild, PEG-free, good compatibility for cream systems.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Sunflower oil unsaponifiables; squalene, tocopherol. Lightweight antioxidant, sensitive to oxidation, store light-protected and N2 flushed.

Inulin

Plant fiber/prebiotic for moisturizing; fully dissolve to avoid crystallization

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier; mild, non-ionic, suitable for O/W emulsions with good stability.

Pectin

Natural polysaccharide binder/stabilizer for gels; incompatible with cationics

Xylitylglucoside

Polyol humectant with high water absorption and fresh feel; often co-used with propylene glycol for enhanced hydration.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Inca Inchi oil; Omega-9 rich emollient. Use <5%; pair with antioxidants to prevent oxidation.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Synthetic ester emollient with light skin feel; small molecule, slightly comedogenic, use cautiously for acne-prone skin, often blended with other oils.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Anhydroxylitol

Anhydrous xylitol, potent humectant; high hygroscopicity may cause stickiness at high levels.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearic alcohol; fatty alcohol for emulsion thickening/structure, often blended with soaps, moderate comedogenicity.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba esters, light emollient ester, low comedogenic; sebum-like, excellent spreadability.

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid, emulsifier and thickener; high comedogenic rating, limit use on acne-prone skin.

Cetyl Behenate

Not decoded yet

Isostearyl Isostearate

Dry emollient providing non-greasy feel; low comedogenic risk, suitable for combination skin.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl phosphate potassium, O/W emulsifier; pH-sensitive, often requires buffering.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Sclerotium Gum

Non-ionic gum for gels; neutral pH, requires dissolution via heating or fine milling

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Beeswax-derived emulsifier, mild and biodegradable; offers emollience for sensitive formulations

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Prebiotic for microflora and smoothing; use 0.5-5%, suitable for sensitive skin

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Benzoic Acid

Preservative and pH adjuster at 0.1–0.5%; low water solubility, best in acidic media, irritant at high levels.

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Essential oil providing woody fragrance and skin conditioning; contains allergens, limited by III/122

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Citrus essential oil; photosensitizing furanocoumarins present, limit daytime use; EU 26 allergen.

Dehydroacetic Acid

Broad-spectrum preservative for acidic and oil-based systems; has concentration limits, requires challenge testing.

Alaria Esculenta Extract

Alaria esculenta extract; alginates, 0.1–1%; film-forming and moisturizing; water phase, watch batch stability

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Honeysuckle extract for soothing and antioxidants; trace use, low allergenic risk

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Honeysuckle extract for soothing; requires antimicrobial protection.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Dimethicone modified silica for dry touch; anti-caking and oil absorption

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Sorbitol

Polyol humectant with strong hygroscopy; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives; also a solvent or adjuster.

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Hydrolyzed protein for moisture, anti-static, and barrier repair.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Calcium Gluconate

Chelator and conditioner, improves stability; water-soluble calcium source

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Gluconolactone

Multifunctional agent for chelation and permeation; acidic, may irritate at high levels, buffer recommended.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Jasmine flower extract for fragrance and conditioning; contains allergens, restricted in leave-on products under EU regulations, label required.

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Rose essential oil with strong scent; contains allergens, requires IFRA compliance.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Glucose

Low-MW humectant and buffer; high hygroscopicity requires careful preservation and humidity control.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Benzyl Benzoate

Chelating agent for stability; restricted substance, not permitted as single component or in mixtures at ≥0.1%.

Glyceryl Linoleate

Glyceryl linoleate; emulsifier and emollient; oxidation-prone, requires antioxidants

Glyceryl Linolenate

Emollient/moisturizer; potential allergen, caution in sensitive skin

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Oleic Acid

Oleic acid for emolliency/emulsification; high levels may increase skin penetration

Iron Oxides

Inorganic pigment for color; particulate form, inhalation risk low in cosmetics.

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