Antioxidant · Oil control · Soothing
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
迷迭香叶提取物
- INCI
- Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 水/丁二醇提取物 0.5–2%;油溶抗氧化浓缩规格(以鼠尾草酸计)0.02–0.2%
- pH window
- 4.0–7.0(水溶规格)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 规格颜色差异是报价前必须确认的第一件事:未脱色规格呈深绿至棕黑,0.1% 就能把白色乳霜拉成灰绿;脱色脱味规格颜色浅、气味淡,但抗氧化能力通常同步下降,价格也不同。两种规格标签上往往是同一个 INCI,客户拿着未脱色的报价去要脱色的效果,是这条原料最常见的扯皮点。2) 与铁、铜离子形成有色络合物,深绿转棕黑;含铁氧化物颜料的彩妆基质与铜肽体系需谨慎,必须加螯合剂并做色泽加速。3) 油溶规格多以植物油或聚甘油酯为载体,直接投入水相会浮油,必须走油相或增溶。4) 与高浓度阳离子调理剂共用时,水溶部分可能造成轻微浑浊,深色发用产品影响不大,透明体系必须先测。5) 气味强:未脱味规格带明显草本药味,与清淡花香型香精正面冲突,做无香配方时是投诉高发点。6) 与皂基等 pH 大于 9 的强碱体系不宜,酚类快速氧化变褐。
Stability
酚二萜在高温与氧气下逐步失活,一般认为 80°C 以上长时间加热会显著削弱其油相保护能力,所以「当抗氧化剂用」时最忌与油脂一起长时间高温保温——那等于先让它自己消耗掉一半。见光变色明显,深色规格在透明包材中会持续加深;水溶规格 pH 超过 7 后褐变加快。还要提醒客户一句:它做油脂保护不是万能的,对玫瑰果油、月见草油、亚麻籽油这类高不饱和体系有帮助,但不能替代避光包材、氮气保护与螯合剂,三者要一起上。与生育酚常见协同使用,加上螯合剂后加速试验中的过氧化值上升通常更缓,但效果随油相组成变化很大,必须按实际配方跑加速数据,不要照搬原料商的通用曲线做承诺。
Processing notes
1) 油溶抗氧化规格在油相降温阶段加入,建议 70°C 以下,不要在油相 85°C 保温时就投——最常见的错误就是「和油一起化开」。2) 水溶规格属后加料,降温 40°C 以下加入,高浓度时先用丁二醇或甘油预稀释。3) 收料环节是本条最大的现场风险:未脱色与脱色规格外观天差地别,标签上却可能只写同一个 INCI,进厂必须核对批号与供应商规格代号并分区存放,混料会直接导致整批色差报废。4) 未脱味规格的气味评估要在实际基质里做,不要拿空白基质定香型,否则香精加量会被迫上调,连带推高致敏物标示与成本。5) 深色提取物容易在管道、灌装嘴与滤芯残留染色,换线做浅色产品时必须加一道表活或溶剂清洗步骤,否则下一批出现零星色点。6) 水提规格偏酸,加完复测 pH 并记录。
What it addresses
主要成分方向是鼠尾草酸、鼠尾草酚与迷迭香酸。前两者是油溶性酚二萜,常被用作油相的抗氧化辅助,延缓不饱和油脂氧化酸败;迷迭香酸是水溶性多酚,多用于水相抗氧化配角与油痘线的清爽方向。它在配方里同时扮演「活性物」和「油脂保护剂」两种角色,选规格前必须先明确用途,因为两种用途对应的浓缩度、颜色与价格完全不同。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用方向;注意同一原料在食品抗氧化与化妆品两条线都有使用,采购规格与用途口径要一致;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用方向;若以配方抗氧化功能添加,需与安全评估中的用途描述一致;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向;抗氧化叙述应限定在配方保护层面,不要外推为人体功效宣称;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用方向,部分市场需补充植物来源与提取溶剂残留资料;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 04688
- Standard Chinese name
- 迷迭香（ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS）叶提取物
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 28.02%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (04688)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (79767) · 功能 ANTIMICROBIAL, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 迷迭香,海洋之露,Rosmarinus officinalis,Salvia rosmarinus,Rosemary Leaf Extract
- CAS
- 84604-14-8(以供应商 COA 复核)
- Suits formats
- Face oil · Balm · Cream · Lotion · Serum · Essence · Stick
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;油溶规格需确认载体油为非动物来源,清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.