cipher 88mph

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
2. Fusanus Spicatus Kernel Oil
3. Phospholipids
4. Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate
5. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
6. Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters
7. Aqua
8. Glycereth-26
9. Dextrin Palmitate
10. Hydrogenated Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
11. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
12. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
13. Isodecyl Neopentanoate
14. Olive Glycerides
15. Propanediol
16. Glycerin
17. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
18. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
19. Ectoin
20. Salicylic Acid
21. Hypericum Perforatum Extract
22. Panthenol
23. Oryzanol
24. Madecassoside
25. Tocopherol
26. Retinal
27. Tripeptide-29
28. Dimethyl Isosorbide
29. Hyaluronic Acid
30. Ceramide NP
31. Ceramide AP
32. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
33. Phytosphingosine
34. Cholesterol
35. Ceramide EOP
36. Bisabolol
37. Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
38. Ascorbic Acid
39. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
40. Carbomer
41. Xanthan Gum
42. Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains fragranceContains animal-derived

Formulation view O/W emulsion leveraging phospholipids and botanical oils to mimic skin lipids. High loading of retinal, ectoine, and tripeptide-29 targets anti-aging and repair, with salicylic acid for exfoliation. Best for mature or resilient skin seeking potent effects. Formulator perspective: intense actives require careful tolerance assessment, ideal for nighttime routine to maximize efficacy and minimize interference.

Key ingredients

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl OlivateOlive Oil PEG-7 Esters

SKIN CONDITIONING

PhospholipidsPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

SOLVENT

Aqua

HUMECTANT

Glycereth-26

ANTICAKING

Dextrin Palmitate

Other ingredients

Fusanus Spicatus Kernel OilPolyglyceryl-2 SesquicaprylateHydrogenated Olea Europaea Oil UnsaponifiablesUndecylenoyl PhenylalanineIsodecyl NeopentanoateOlive GlyceridesPropanediolGlycerinCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideStearyl GlycyrrhetinateEctoinSalicylic AcidHypericum Perforatum ExtractPanthenolOryzanolMadecassosideTocopherolRetinalTripeptide-29Dimethyl IsosorbideHyaluronic AcidCeramide NPCeramide APSaccharomyces Cerevisiae ExtractPhytosphingosineCholesterolCeramide EOPBisabololZingiber Officinale Root ExtractAscorbic AcidSodium Lauroyl LactylateCarbomerXanthan GumSodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Emollient ester and emulsifier; provides silky feel in O/W systems, generally mild and non-irritating

Fusanus Spicatus Kernel Oil

Not decoded yet

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate

Not decoded yet

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Mild non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; cetyl ester structure may irritate sensitive skin, use at 0.5-3%.

Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters

Olive oil PEG-7 esters, gentle emulsifier and emollient containing PEG structure; suitable for creams, monitor PEG allergens and contamination.

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycereth-26

Glycereth-26, humectant/viscosity modifier at 1–5%; non-ionic water-soluble, boosts stability and feel.

Dextrin Palmitate

Modified polysaccharide ester for emulsifying and anticaking; mild cleanser; used in solid soaps or powders.

Hydrogenated Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Not decoded yet

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

SKIN CONDITIONING

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Volatile dry ester for make-up/emulsions; fast-drying, non-greasy, seal to prevent weight loss.

Olive Glycerides

Olive-derived mono/diglycerides as auxiliary O/W emulsifiers and emollients; screen olive-allergy risk.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Glycyrrhizin derivative offering core soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits, plus emollience for reactive skin

Ectoin

Cosmectin and skin protector, enhances skin tolerance; water-soluble, 0.1–5% common, compatible with most systems

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Hypericum Perforatum Extract

St John's Wort extract with soothing/antimicrobial/antioxidant benefits; **high photosensitivity**, strict sun protection required after application.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Oryzanol

Rice-bran antioxidant for skin conditioning and sebum balance

Madecassoside

Triterpenoid glycoside with soothing, repairing, and antioxidant effects; typical concentration 0.1-1%, suitable for sensitive or compromised skin, good stability.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Retinal

Potent vitamin A aldehyde for cell turnover; low effective range 0.01-0.05%, unstable, avoid for pregnant users.

Tripeptide-29

Not decoded yet

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dimethyl isosorbide as solvent and viscosity control; low toxicity, common use

Hyaluronic Acid

High-water-binding humectant at 0.1-1%; high-MW for surface film, low-MW for dermal potential, check cationic compatibility.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Yeast extract rich in peptides and vitamins for antioxidant and skin conditioning; water-soluble, low irritation risk.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Root extract for scent and toning; may irritate compromised skin.

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Humectant and antistatic agent for skin and hair; biocompatible and low irritation. Large molecular weight limits deep penetration.

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