Panthenol

Incompatibilities and failure points

1)强酸(pH低于4)与强碱(pH高于8)两端都会使其水解成泛酸及其盐,不是变质而是缓慢失效,同时体系会发酸、pH持续下移,形成自加速的恶性循环。与高浓度果酸、直接酸类体系同配是最典型的翻车场景。2)与富含有机酸的草本提取物、水果提取物或发酵滤液共配时,这些原料本身会把体系pH拉到5以下,配方师往往只看了活性物却没看pH的实际落点。3)酸性、高温、长时间三者叠加时水解最快,单看任一项都可能判为安全。4)75%水溶液规格粘稠且吸湿,直接投入无水油相或高油相体系会分层挂壁,必须先在水相中稀释。5)与阴离子表活体系、阳离子调理剂本身均相容,不是配伍禁忌区。

Stability

常温、pH 5–7条件下稳定,对光和氧都不敏感,真正的杀手是pH漂移与储存温度。加速试验中若体系pH低于4.5,通常在40℃放置数周即可观察到pH进一步下降和轻微的酸样气味,这是水解产物泛酸造成的,含量检测会同步走低。液体原料本身吸湿性强,开桶后未密封会吸潮变稀、影响实际投料浓度,并可能滋生微生物,应记录开桶日期并尽快用完。稳定性计划里必须逐月记录pH,这在保质期争议时是唯一能自证工艺没问题的数据。

Processing notes

1)水相原料,冷却阶段加入(建议40–50℃以下),不要在加热保温段投料。2)液体规格粘度高,称量时挂壁损耗大,必须用少量配方水冲洗称量容器一并投入,否则实际投料低于配方值;这个偏差在放大生产时被等比例放大,直接影响标示含量。3)粉体规格溶解偏慢,先用部分配方水预溶清亮再并锅,不要直接撒入主锅形成结团。4)与烟酰胺、甘油、氨基酸类保湿剂可在同一水相预溶,无冲突。5)最终pH定在5.0–6.5之间,并把pH纳入留样监测项,每月记录一次。6)如果配方里同时有酸性活性,先算清楚加完所有原料后的实际pH落点再定泛醇添加量,不要按理想值排配方。

What it addresses

泛酸的醇类似物,进入皮肤后可转化为泛酸,参与辅酶A相关的代谢路径,同时分子本身吸湿性强,可在角质层提供保湿。是草本舒缓类配方近乎默认的搭档,肤感不留负担、与绝大多数体系相容,所以配方师习惯性加它。它在配方里最需要盯的不是相容性,而是保质期内的pH走向:一旦水解,pH会继续下移并进一步加速水解。

Market direction

中国 / CN

在中国属于常规使用的化妆品原料,按产品分类走对应备案或注册路径;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

欧盟市场常规使用,安全评估中注明规格(D型或DL型)与浓度;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

美国市场作为普通化妆品成分常规使用,宣称措辞需避免疗效表述;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚主要市场常规使用,各市场对舒缓类表述的口径不同,须逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

02292

Standard Chinese name

泛醇

Max historical use, leave-on

40%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (02292)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (35839) · 功能 ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

泛醇,D-泛醇,右旋泛醇,维生素原B5,前维生素B5,Dexpanthenol,Provitamin B5

CAS

81-13-0(D-泛醇);DL-泛醇为16485-10-2

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Toner · Lotion · Cream · Gel · Sheet mask · Cleanser

Halal and vegan

合成来源,与动物源无关,通常可做vegan;清真需供应商出具证明,并确认液体规格的稀释介质。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

高

Others in this family

• Imagery pendingNiacinamideBarrier repair
• Imagery pendingAscorbyl GlucosideBrightening
• Imagery pending3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidBrightening
• Imagery pendingTocopherolAntioxidant