Soothing · Barrier repair · Antioxidant
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
金盏花花提取物
- INCI
- Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 水溶提取物 0.5–3%;油浸提物 1–10%
- pH window
- 4.5–7.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 颜色是这条原料的头号坑:类胡萝卜素带来的黄至橙黄在白色乳霜里极其明显,1–3% 就足以把纯白基质拉到米黄或浅杏色,再叠加二氧化钛也压不回纯白,只会变成发灰的白。要做「纯白婴儿霜」的客户必须在打样前看到实物色卡,光看文字描述一定对不齐。2) 菊科交叉致敏:与洋甘菊、山金车、蓍草同为菊科,敏感与婴童线不建议在同一配方里堆叠多种菊科提取物。3) 遇铁离子显色加深,含铁颜料体系需加螯合剂。4) 油浸提物会稀释油相极性并带入自身甘油三酯,与高含量硅油或高极性酯共用时改变乳化平衡,原本稳定的配方在提高加量后出现析油,这类故障常被误判为乳化剂问题。5) 与高浓度过氧化物等强氧化体系不兼容,类胡萝卜素快速脱色。6) 提取物带电解质,与卡波姆体系叠加会降黏,需要复配增稠。
Stability
类胡萝卜素见光极易褪色:透明包材中的黄色会在数周到数月内明显变淡,客户常常误判为「活性没了」,实际是色素降解,所以质量标准里应给出色泽范围而不是单点色。油浸提物除了褪色,载体油本身也会氧化产生哈味,油浸规格必须搭配生育酚类抗氧化并避光。热稳定性一般,70°C 以上保温会加速褪色与气味变化,水提物按后加处理。pH 偏碱条件下黄酮变色加深,建议锁在 4.5–6.5。提取物带糖与多糖背景,防腐负担上升,挑战试验必须带料做。
Processing notes
1) 水提物降温 40°C 以下后加并做 1:5 预稀释;油浸提物在油相降温段加入(建议 70°C 以下),不要跟着油相一起高温保温。2) 色泽管理是本条的核心工作:进料按色泽范围验收,客户确认样阶段同时提供最深与最浅两个批次的样品并让客户签字。还要提前告知一件事——放大生产的受热时间比小样长,成品通常比小样更淡一点,不提前说,客户一定按小样判色差。3) 油浸提物经冷藏或冬季运输后常出现浑浊或蜡质析出,使用前需在 40–45°C 缓慢回温并充分搅匀再取用,否则上下层浓度不同,批间加量不准。4) 婴童线建议向供应商索取农残与重金属数据,并明确提取溶剂:不少品牌方会直接拒绝醇提规格用于婴童产品,这一条要在选料阶段问,不要等配方定稿。5) 原料自带草本甜香,做无香配方时必须在实际基质里嗅辨评估。
What it addresses
成分方向以三萜类(以法地醇酯类 faradiol esters 为代表,另含金盏花皂苷等三萜皂苷)、类黄酮与类胡萝卜素为主,常用于婴童护理、剃须后与敏感线的安抚型配方,为「温和低刺激」的产品叙事提供骨架。市面常见两种规格:水或丁二醇提取物,与金盏花油浸提物(浸泡油)。两者的颜色深浅、加量区间与配伍规则完全不同,选料时必须先定规格再谈加量。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用方向;需确认原料目录收录与原料安全信息码,婴童类产品另有更严的整体要求;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用方向;婴童与敏感定位产品的安全评估资料要求更高;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向;安抚类文案需避免疾病与创伤修复暗示;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用方向,部分市场对婴童产品与植物原料有额外备案要求;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 03500
- Standard Chinese name
- 金盏花（CALENDULA OFFICINALIS）花提取物
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 85.77%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (03500)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (74929) · 功能 FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, PERFUMING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 金盏花,金盏菊,万寿菊(易混,非同种),Calendula officinalis,Pot Marigold
- CAS
- 84776-23-8(以供应商 COA 复核)
- Suits formats
- Cream · Lotion · Balm · Face oil · Sheet mask · Gel · Essence · Stick
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;油浸提物需确认载体油为非动物来源,醇提规格的清真认定需另行评估并要求供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.