Oil control · Soothing · Conditioning
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
牛蒡根提取物
- INCI
- Arctium Lappa Root Extract
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 0.5–3%
- pH window
- 4.0–7.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 气味是最实际的配伍问题:带明显的土腥与根茎类药味,1% 以上在无香或淡香体系里就能被明确闻出来,与柑橘、清爽花香型香精正面冲突。常见连锁反应是香精加量被迫上调,进而推高致敏物标示与香精成本,最后为了掩盖气味重新开香型。做无香配方时,要么降加量,要么选脱味精制规格,要么直接换料,这个判断要在报价前做。2) 多酚遇铁离子显色发暗,含铁氧化物颜料或使用非 316L 设备时问题明显。3) 与阳离子调理剂可能出现轻微浑浊,透明头皮水体系必须先做小试。4) 与高浓度乙醇共存时,菊粉类多糖可能析出造成雾浊,醇量高的头皮水要跑低温澄清度测试。5) 与其它高电解质植提叠加时,会共同拉低卡波姆类增稠剂的效率。
Stability
多酚见光遇氧变色,浅棕色水提物在透明瓶中持续加深;pH 偏碱时褐变加快,建议锁在 4.5–6.0 并配螯合剂。菊粉类多糖是易被利用的碳源,微生物风险高于平均水平的植提,防腐挑战必须带料做,不能用无此原料的基质数据外推。加热耐受尚可,但长时间高温保温会同时加深颜色与放大气味,按后加处理。低温储存可能出现细微沉降,属多糖与不溶物析出,使用前搅匀即可;若客户要求成品「绝对澄清」,应在采购环节直接选精制或超滤规格并写进规格书,不要靠成品端过滤补救。
Processing notes
1) 按后加料处理,降温 40°C 以下加入,先做 1:5 预稀释再沿桶壁入锅。2) 气味必须在实际基质里评估,不能只闻原料本身——稀释进基质后气味特征会变,典型情况是「原料闻着还行,做进产品被客户投诉」。建议在客户确认样阶段同时送含它与不含它的两个版本,让客户自己闻过再定。3) 如果产品定位是无香,在报价前就要把这条原料对香精方案的连带影响讲清楚,避免后期为掩盖气味重新开香型带来的时间与成本损失。4) 深色规格会在管道与灌装嘴残留,换线做浅色产品要加清洗步骤。5) 进料时务必确认提取溶剂与固含量:同一个 INCI 下,水提、醇提与丁二醇提的颜色、气味和有效物含量差异极大,不同批次混用会直接体现在成品气味上。6) 加完复测 pH 并记录。
What it addresses
含菊粉类多糖与咖啡酰奎宁酸类多酚(绿原酸方向),水溶性好,常用于头皮清爽、油痘辅助以及「控油不紧绷」的配方叙事,在配方里通常做配角而非主角。需注意木脂素(牛蒡子苷/牛蒡子苷元)主要富集在果实牛蒡子,根提取物中含量低,不要按木脂素指标去选根提取物。它在水剂中几乎不改变外观与黏度,是少数可以直接顶到较高加量而不引起物性变化的植提之一;真正限制它加量的不是配伍,是气味。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用方向;需确认原料目录收录与原料安全信息码,并注意其在传统药材语境下的宣称边界;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用方向;需提供植物部位与提取工艺资料以支持安全评估;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向;头皮与油痘相关文案需避免疾病治疗暗示;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用方向,部分市场对植物根类原料有进口与备案资料要求;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 04868
- Standard Chinese name
- 牛蒡（ARCTIUM LAPPA）根提取物
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 3.5%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 3%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (04868)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (54571) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 牛蒡,牛蒡根,东洋参(俗称),Arctium lappa,Burdock Root Extract
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Toner · Essence · Serum · Gel · Cleanser · Lotion · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;醇提规格的清真认定需另行评估,并要求供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.