Brightening · Antioxidant
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
3-邻乙基抗坏血酸
- INCI
- 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
- Family
- 维生素及衍生物
- Typical use level
- 0.5–2%
- pH window
- 4.0–6.0(常见做到5.0–5.5)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1)铁、铜离子是头号问题,极低浓度即可引起明显黄变甚至粉变,来源包括生产用水、植物提取物、色粉、锅体与工具磨损的铁屑、以及泵头里的金属弹簧。2)与烟酰胺同配存在pH冲突:乙基VC偏好pH 5以下,烟酰胺希望5以上,折中做到5.0–5.5并严格控制热历程,避免在低pH高温下长时间共处。3)与单宁、多酚含量高的草本提取物(白柳皮、绿茶、五倍子、栗子壳)叠加时,变色速度显著加快且颜色偏深。4)与三乙醇胺等胺类碱剂体系相容性差,易变色。5)在低pH条件下,部分丙烯酸类增稠剂的增稠力大幅下降甚至完全失效,配方会"越放越稀",必须选耐酸耐电解质的流变剂。6)与过氧化物、氧化型染发体系直接冲突。
Stability
干粉稳定,水溶液的稳定性由pH、金属、氧、光四项共同决定。pH 4–5.5明显更稳,高于6后降解与变色同步加快。见光加速,透明包材加货架灯是最常见的变色场景。颜色从无色转黄再转橙褐是典型的降解轨迹,可作为半定量的老化指示,但不能替代含量检测。稳定化方案基本是固定四件套:螯合剂、低pH、避光阻氧包材、控制生产溶氧,缺任何一项都会在6–12个月留样上看出差别。
Processing notes
1)冷却阶段加入,建议40℃以下;在高温段投料等于替客户提前消耗有效物。2)螯合剂按常规量必加,并全程使用去离子水,金属离子控制是这条原料的生命线。3)锅体与管路优先使用状态良好的316L不锈钢,禁止铁质工具、破损搪瓷器皿;取样勺、过滤网、刮板都算在内。4)先用部分配方水做预溶至完全澄清,再调pH,再并入主体;调pH时缓慢滴加,避免出现局部碱性区域造成的局部变色。5)尽量减少空气卷入,搅拌后静置脱气,有条件在灌装线做氮气顶空。6)包材必须做相容性试验,重点看避光性、阻氧性,以及带金属弹簧的泵头接触区域有没有变色;这一项常被跳过,却是上市后变色投诉的高发来源。7)放大生产的坑:中试到量产变色加剧,通常来自更长的管路停留时间、更高的溶氧和更差的水质,不要一上来就怀疑原料批次。
What it addresses
抗坏血酸3位羟基被乙基醚化的衍生物,兼具一定水溶性与亲脂性,在配方中比游离维C耐氧,进入皮肤后可脱去乙基释放抗坏血酸,常用于肤色均匀度方向。客户点名率很高,但它仍保留部分还原性,对金属离子和氧依然敏感,不能当成"稳定型、随便加"的原料来排配方。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 在中国按常规化妆品原料使用,涉及功效宣称需另备符合要求的评价资料;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟市场需在安全评估中纳入该原料的浓度、纯度与体系pH信息;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国市场作为普通化妆品成分常规使用,宣称需控制在化妆品范畴内;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚主要市场使用普遍,各市场对肤色相关表述口径不同,须逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 00050
- Standard Chinese name
- 3-邻-乙基抗坏血酸
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (00050)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Not listed
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 乙基VC,VC乙基醚,3-O-乙基抗坏血酸,3-邻乙基抗坏血酸,Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
- CAS
- 86404-04-8
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Toner · Lotion · Cream · Gel
- Halal and vegan
- 合成来源,与动物源无关,通常可做vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.