The Inkey List acne clearing moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Sulfur
2. Aqua
3. Glycerin
4. Octyldodecanol
5. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
7. Arachidyl Alcohol
8. Pentaerythrityl Distearate
9. Squalane
10. Glyceryl Stearate SE
11. Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
12. Behenyl Alcohol
13. Acacia Senegal Gum
14. Arachidyl Glucoside
15. Phenoxyethanol
16. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
17. Panthenol
18. Xanthan Gum
19. Benzyl Alcohol
20. Citric Acid
21. Retinol
22. Sodium Hyaluronate
23. Ethylhexylglycerin
24. Pentylene Glycol
25. Sodium Metabisulfite
26. Pistacia Lentiscus Gum
27. Dehydroacetic Acid
28. Lecithin
29. Glucose
30. Tocopherol
31. Glyceryl Caprylate

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains alcohol

Formulation view Acne-clearing moisturizer featuring sulfur, salicylic acid precursors, and retinol for exfoliation. Light esters ensure refreshment; ascorbate derivatives boost antioxidants. Suitable for oily, acne-prone skin; sensitive types need tolerance building. Factory note: Uniform sulfur dispersion is key; polyols solubilize actives, balancing oil control and hydration.

Key ingredients

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Sulfur

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

OctyldodecanolArachidyl Alcohol

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

ANTIOXIDANT

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Other ingredients

SqualaneGlyceryl Stearate SECitronellyl MethylcrotonateBehenyl AlcoholAcacia Senegal GumArachidyl GlucosidePhenoxyethanolAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerPanthenolXanthan GumBenzyl AlcoholCitric AcidRetinolSodium HyaluronateEthylhexylglycerinPentylene GlycolSodium MetabisulfitePistacia Lentiscus GumDehydroacetic AcidLecithinGlucoseTocopherolGlyceryl Caprylate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Sulfur

Sebum-regulating and anti-seborrheic agent for acne; has distinct odor, low irritancy at standard levels but can be drying.

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Arachidyl Alcohol

Waxy emulsion stabilizer and thickener, often paired with cetearyl alcohol; heavy feel, good for creams

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Oil-soluble emulsifier/wax; improves cream hardness and shine, typical use 1-5%, non-ionic

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Glyceryl Stearate SE

Emulsifier at 1–3%; oil-phase ingredient, easy emulsification, low sensitization.

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Used for floral fragrance notes; listed as one of the 26 EU allergens, must be declared in labeling.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Acacia Senegal Gum

Natural film-former and fragrance agent; used for viscosity or film, check purity for allergens

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mild non-ionic emulsifier and emollient, PEG-free; co-soluble with stearoyl lactylates

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant/preservative at 0.05–0.2%; irritating for sensitive skin, avoid with oxidizers

Pistacia Lentiscus Gum

Frankincense resin for film formation and fragrance; natural source, high doses may sensitize

Dehydroacetic Acid

Broad-spectrum preservative for acidic and oil-based systems; has concentration limits, requires challenge testing.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Glucose

Low-MW humectant and buffer; high hygroscopicity requires careful preservation and humidity control.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

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