medi-peel Melanon X Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Dipropylene Glycol
3. Niacinamide
4. Glycerin
5. Butylene Glycol
6. 1,2-Hexanediol
7. Isopropyl Isostearate
8. Carbomer
9. Arginine
10. Beeswax
11. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
12. Stearyl Alcohol
13. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
14. Dimethicone
15. Sorbitan Stearate
16. Polysorbate 60
17. Panthenol
18. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
19. Palmitic Acid
20. C14-22 Alcohols
21. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
22. Hydrogenated Lecithin
23. Adenosine
24. Polyacrylate-13
25. C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
26. Tocopheryl Acetate
27. Disodium EDTA
28. Polyisobutene
29. Sodium Hyaluronate
30. Polysorbate 20
31. Sorbitan Isostearate
32. Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
33. Salvia Sclarea Extract
34. Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract
35. Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
36. Borago Officinalis Extract
37. Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
38. Glucose
39. Propanediol
40. Ethylhexylglycerin
41. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
42. Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate
43. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
44. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
45. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
46. Hyaluronic Acid
47. Diacetyl

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains mineral oilContains siliconesContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oils

Formulation view Oil-in-water cream with beeswax, stearic alcohol, and shea butter forming a occlusive base, combined with niacinamide, adenosine, and botanicals for care. Preservation uses 1,2-hexanediol and ethylhexylglycerin complex, avoiding traditional preservatives. Suitable for dry/mature skin as night repair. Factory view: Beeswax's natural wax texture demands precise emulsification control to prevent graininess and ensure uniform dispersion.

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

FRAGRANCE

Dipropylene Glycol

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

SKIN CONDITIONING

1,2-Hexanediol

BINDING

Isopropyl Isostearate

EMULSION STABILISING

Carbomer

Other ingredients

ArginineBeeswaxButyrospermum Parkii ButterStearyl AlcoholHydrogenated PolyisobuteneDimethiconeSorbitan StearatePolysorbate 60PanthenolPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPalmitic AcidC14-22 AlcoholsAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerHydrogenated LecithinAdenosinePolyacrylate-13C12-20 Alkyl GlucosideTocopheryl AcetateDisodium EDTAPolyisobuteneSodium HyaluronatePolysorbate 20Sorbitan IsostearateLavandula Angustifolia Flower ExtractSalvia Sclarea ExtractHyacinthus Orientalis ExtractChamomilla Recutita Flower ExtractBorago Officinalis ExtractCentaurea Cyanus Flower ExtractGlucosePropanediolEthylhexylglycerinHydroxypropyltrimonium HyaluronatePolyglyceryl-10 DiisostearateCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideHydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidSodium Acetylated HyaluronateHyaluronic AcidDiacetyl

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Isopropyl Isostearate

Light emollient/ester for silky feel; stable, O/W compatible, potentially comedogenic at high levels.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Beeswax

Beeswax, natural thickener and film former; provides occlusive moisturization, natural honey scent, animal-derived, potential allergen

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearic alcohol; fatty alcohol for emulsion thickening/structure, often blended with soaps, moderate comedogenicity.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated polyisobutene; petroleum-derived lubricant forming breathable film; high purity, low irritation/comedogenicity.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Sorbitan Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; hydrophobic, requires co-emulsifiers, inert at high purity

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic acid for emulsification/emollient; solid fat, high melting point, occlusive.

C14-22 Alcohols

Fatty alcohol blend for emulsion stability and texture; may contain myristyl alcohol, moderate comedogenic risk.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Polyacrylate-13

Not decoded yet

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Non-ionic surfactant for mild cleansing and emulsification; plant-based glucoside, suitable for sensitive and baby skin.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Polyisobutene

Inert film former and occlusive; increases viscosity, slippery feel, used in lipsticks

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Lavender extract for fragrance and toning; contains linalool, potential allergen.

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Clary sage extract for sebum regulation and soothing; required labeling as fragrance in lip products, potential sensitization at high levels.

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Plant extract for skin conditioning and toning; assess allergen content and stability

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Plant extract, soothing properties; contains natural allergens, high levels may irritate.

Borago Officinalis Extract

Plant extract for skin care and soothing; high levels of crude extract may sensitize.

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Centaurea flower extract with flavonoids; astringent and conditioning, mild risk at high levels.

Glucose

Low-MW humectant and buffer; high hygroscopicity requires careful preservation and humidity control.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Cationic hyaluronic acid, 0.1–1%; water-soluble thickener and conditioning agent.

Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate

Mild non-ionic emulsifier for lotions; low irritancy, no strong sensitization data, concentration depends on formula, suitable for sensitive skin formulas.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Low-MW humectant with superior penetration vs high-MW; 0.1-0.5% typical, hygroscopic, store dry to prevent clumping.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Acetylated HA; modified for hydrophobicity, improved penetration and non-tacky feel compared to standard HA.

Hyaluronic Acid

High-water-binding humectant at 0.1-1%; high-MW for surface film, low-MW for dermal potential, check cationic compatibility.

Diacetyl

Not decoded yet

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