skin79 Magic Return Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Dimethicone
3. Cyclopentasiloxane
4. Glycerin
5. Niacinamide
6. Dimethyl Sulfone
7. PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
8. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
9. Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract
10. Centella Asiatica Extract
11. Houttuynia Cordata Extract
12. 1,2-Hexanediol
13. Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
14. Squalane
15. Carbomer
16. Tromethamine
17. Polysorbate 20
18. Hydroxyethyl Urea
19. PEG-10 Dimethicone
20. Propanediol
21. Polysorbate 60
22. Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract
23. Trehalose
24. Fructooligosaccharides
25. Saccharide Hydrolysate
26. Ethylhexylglycerin
27. Pullulan
28. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
29. Adenosine
30. Sorbitan Isostearate
31. Disodium EDTA
32. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
33. Lactic Acid
34. Betaine
35. Water
36. Sodium Hyaluronate
37. Butylene Glycol
38. Maltodextrin
39. Royal Jelly
40. Propolis Extract
41. Hydrolyzed Royal Jelly Protein
42. Pentylene Glycol
43. Madecassoside
44. Phenoxyethanol
45. Fragrance

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains essential oilsContains animal-derivedContains PEGContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

CyclopentasiloxaneSalvia Hispanica Seed Extract

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SOLVENT

Dimethyl Sulfone

EMULSION STABILISING

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other ingredients

PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerCentella Asiatica ExtractHouttuynia Cordata Extract1,2-HexanediolCetearyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerSqualaneCarbomerTromethaminePolysorbate 20Hydroxyethyl UreaPEG-10 DimethiconePropanediolPolysorbate 60Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf ExtractTrehaloseFructooligosaccharidesSaccharide HydrolysateEthylhexylglycerinPullulanAloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractAdenosineSorbitan IsostearateDisodium EDTADipotassium GlycyrrhizateLactic AcidBetaineWaterSodium HyaluronateButylene GlycolMaltodextrinRoyal JellyPropolis ExtractHydrolyzed Royal Jelly ProteinPentylene GlycolMadecassosidePhenoxyethanolFragrance

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Dimethyl Sulfone

Dimethyl sulfoxide, strong penetrant and solvent; volatile odor, concentration control needed

PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Not decoded yet

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Plant extract with mucilage and saponins; acts as skin emollient and conditioning agent.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Houttuynia cordata extract for anti-inflammatory and soothing effects; contains volatile oils, patch test recommended for sensitive skin.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Not decoded yet

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Tromethamine

pH adjuster, alkaline; precise dosing required

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Potent humectant and conditioner; high penetration, used for skin hydration and hair care

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Modified silicone for silky feel and shine; PEG structure aids O/W emulsification, used in hair and skin care.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract

Wintergreen leaf extract; contains methyl salicylate. Aromatic and cooling. Potential allergen for some.

Trehalose

Trehalose; mild humectant and stabilizer for proteins/actives; hygroscopic, light skin feel.

Fructooligosaccharides

Prebiotic polysaccharide for hydration/skin conditioning; high levels may feel sticky

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Saccharide hydrolysate, strong humectant with hygroscopic properties; suitable for various dosage forms.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Pullulan

Microbial polysaccharide for film forming and thickening; water-soluble film former used in capsules or moisturizing films.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe vera leaf extract for soothing and humectant; monitor polysaccharide level and endotoxins

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Betaine

Betaine for mild moisturizing/surfactant; low concentration 1-2% common, high may irritate.

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Royal Jelly

Not decoded yet

Propolis Extract

Propolis extract for antimicrobial care; complex composition, potential allergy risk.

Hydrolyzed Royal Jelly Protein

Hydrolyzed royal jelly protein for amino acid nourishment; animal-derived, check allergen labeling.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Madecassoside

Triterpenoid glycoside with soothing, repairing, and antioxidant effects; typical concentration 0.1-1%, suitable for sensitive or compromised skin, good stability.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

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