aplb Derma Recipe 45% Cleansing Foam

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
2. Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
3. Water
4. Lauric Acid
5. Propolis Extract
6. Glycerin
7. Myristic Acid
8. Lauryl Betaine
9. Potassium Hydroxide
10. Stearic Acid
11. Propylene Glycol Laurate
12. Glycol Distearate
13. Sodium Chloride
14. Sorbitan Olivate
15. 1,2-Hexanediol
16. Butylene Glycol
17. Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
18. Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
19. Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
20. Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
21. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
22. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
23. Artemisia Princeps Extract
24. Centella Asiatica Extract
25. Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
26. Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
27. Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract
28. Squalane
29. Sodium Hyaluronate
30. Beta-Glucan
31. Ascorbic Acid
32. Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
33. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
34. Disodium EDTA
35. Propanediol
36. Hydroxyacetophenone
37. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
38. Fragrance
39. Limonene
40. Citral

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains PEGContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Key ingredients

SKIN CONDITIONING

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf ExtractHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit ExtractPropolis Extract

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

CLEANSING

Lauric Acid

DENATURANT

Glycerin

PERFUMING

Myristic Acid

ANTISTATIC

Lauryl Betaine

Other ingredients

Potassium HydroxideStearic AcidPropylene Glycol LaurateGlycol DistearateSodium ChlorideSorbitan Olivate1,2-HexanediolButylene GlycolPinus Palustris Leaf ExtractUlmus Davidiana Root ExtractOenothera Biennis Flower ExtractPueraria Lobata Root ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractArtemisia Princeps ExtractCentella Asiatica ExtractNelumbium Speciosum Flower ExtractSolanum Melongena Fruit ExtractHydrolyzed Collagen ExtractSqualaneSodium HyaluronateBeta-GlucanAscorbic AcidHydroxypropyl MethylcelluloseAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerDisodium EDTAPropanediolHydroxyacetophenoneDipotassium GlycyrrhizateFragranceLimoneneCitral

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Witch hazel leaf extract for astringency and skin care; common in soothing formulas

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Sea buckthorn fruit extract for skin conditioning; stable at low levels, check phototoxicity at high doses.

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Lauric Acid

Lauric acid for cleansing and emulsification; high comedogenic rating, recommend limiting to 1-2% or combining with other acids.

Propolis Extract

Propolis extract for antimicrobial care; complex composition, potential allergy risk.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Myristic Acid

Saturated fatty acid, saponification feedstock; insoluble alone, pairs with stearic acid.

Lauryl Betaine

Mild amphoteric surfactant; foaming and stabilizing. Eye irritation may exceed anionics, use low levels for sensitive skin.

Potassium Hydroxide

Strong alkali pH adjuster, trace usage (<0.1%); corrosive, must be neutralized.

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Propylene Glycol Laurate

Propylene glycol laurate; emollient and mild detergent; oil-soluble surfactant.

Glycol Distearate

Glycol distearate for thickening and emulsification; non-ionic, improves viscosity

Sodium Chloride

Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract

Longleaf pine needle extract for toning; contains essential oils, allergen risk for sensitive skin.

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Plant extract for basic skin conditioning; low usage, ensure raw material consistency

Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract

Evening primrose flower extract acting as an astringent; generally safe at standard formulation levels.

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Kudzu root extract as humectant; contains isoflavones, limit dose due to endocrine activity.

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Tea tree leaf extract for skin conditioning and perfuming; allergen risk requires dilution.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Artemisia Princeps Extract

Artemisia extract, soothing and repair; 0.1–1% typical, data limited, low risk

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract

Lotus flower extract containing magnolol, skin conditioner; botanical, low concentration use

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Eggplant fruit extract for skin conditioning; watch for batch consistency and potential allergenicity.

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract

Hydrolyzed collagen fragments claimed for skin protection, weak evidence, low usage levels

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

High polymer for thickening and film formation; water-soluble, used in physical sunscreens or gels, tacky at high levels

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

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