galenicumderma Acnium Emulsion

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Dimethicone
4. Niacinamide
5. Propanediol
6. C13-15 Alkane
7. Tranexamic Acid
8. Glyceryl Behenate
9. Glyceryl Stearate
10. Pentylene Glycol
11. Glycolic Acid
12. PEG-100 Stearate
13. Retinol
14. Retinyl Palmitate
15. Plankton Extract
16. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
17. Salicylic Acid
18. Phosphatidylcholine
19. Mannitol
20. Hydroxyethylcellulose
21. Xanthan Gum
22. Polysorbate 20
23. Lactic Acid
24. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
25. Sodium Chloride
26. Cholesterol
27. Citric Acid
28. Sodium Hydroxide
29. Potassium Sorbate
30. Sodium Benzoate
31. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
32. Capryloyl Glycine
33. BHA
34. BHT
35. Tocopheryl Acetate

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains mineral oilContains PEGContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SOLVENT · 限制 II

C13-15 Alkane

ASTRINGENT

Tranexamic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Glyceryl Behenate

Other ingredients

Glyceryl StearatePentylene GlycolGlycolic AcidPEG-100 StearateRetinolRetinyl PalmitatePlankton ExtractHydrolyzed Jojoba EstersSalicylic AcidPhosphatidylcholineMannitolHydroxyethylcelluloseXanthan GumPolysorbate 20Lactic AcidTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateSodium ChlorideCholesterolCitric AcidSodium HydroxidePotassium SorbateSodium BenzoateCaprylhydroxamic AcidCapryloyl GlycineBHABHTTocopheryl Acetate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

C13-15 Alkane

Mineral oil derivative as solvent and spreader; low irritation and allergen, ensure high purity free of carcinogens

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid for skin brightening; generally mild at low external doses.

Glyceryl Behenate

Emulsifier and thickener with emollient properties; high melting point, low comedogenicity.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Plankton Extract

Plankton extract for skin conditioning; low concentrations typical, ensure source purity to avoid microbial contamination.

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Lightweight emollient and film-former; improves hair slip, generally low concentration.

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Phosphatidylcholine

Biocompatible emulsifier mimicking sebum; plant/egg derived, check oxidative stability

Mannitol

Polyol humectant with binding/skin conditioning properties; high levels may cause osmotic irritation

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Water-soluble cellulose ether for thickening and suspension stabilization; sensitive to ions, electrolytes reduce viscosity, use at pH 7-8.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals

Sodium Chloride

Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels

Capryloyl Glycine

Functional surfactant with seborrhea-control properties; suited for oily or acne-prone skin.

BHA

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

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