formulyst Ideal State Moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Glycerin
3. Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
4. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
5. Dimethicone
6. Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
7. Diisostearyl Malate
8. Trioctyldodecyl Citrate
9. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
10. Ethyl Macadamiate
11. Glyceryl Stearate
12. Arachidyl Alcohol
13. Panthenol
14. Ceramide NP
15. Hydrolyzed Silk
16. Laminaria Saccharina Extract
17. Panax Ginseng Root Extract
18. Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
19. Sodium Hyaluronate
20. Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1
21. Centella Asiatica Extract
22. Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
23. Tocopherol
24. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
25. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
26. Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
27. Dextran
28. Phytol
29. Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
30. Tocopheryl Acetate
31. Retinyl Palmitate
32. Isomalt
33. Cetyl Alcohol
34. Stearic Acid
35. Stearyl Alcohol
36. Arachidyl Glucoside
37. Xylitylglucoside
38. Xanthan Gum
39. Anhydroxylitol
40. Butylene Glycol
41. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
42. Xylitol
43. Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
44. Coconut Alkanes
45. Behenyl Alcohol
46. 1,2-Hexanediol
47. Carbomer
48. Polysorbate 20
49. Sodium Hydroxide
50. Ethylhexylglycerin
51. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains PEG

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

DENATURANT

Glycerin

FRAGRANCE

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Coco-Caprylate/CaprateDiisostearyl MalateTrioctyldodecyl Citrate

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

BINDING

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Other ingredients

Butyrospermum Parkii ButterEthyl MacadamiateGlyceryl StearateArachidyl AlcoholPanthenolCeramide NPHydrolyzed SilkLaminaria Saccharina ExtractPanax Ginseng Root ExtractTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractSodium HyaluronateSr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1Centella Asiatica ExtractGanoderma Lucidum ExtractTocopherolPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3DextranPhytolCannabis Sativa Seed OilTocopheryl AcetateRetinyl PalmitateIsomaltCetyl AlcoholStearic AcidStearyl AlcoholArachidyl GlucosideXylitylglucosideXanthan GumAnhydroxylitolButylene GlycolAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerXylitolDimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 CrosspolymerCoconut AlkanesBehenyl Alcohol1,2-HexanediolCarbomerPolysorbate 20Sodium HydroxideEthylhexylglycerinPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Natural seed oil rich in linoleic acid; moisturizing, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Natural oil-derived ester offering thickening and emollience; light non-greasy feel, better oxidative stability

Diisostearyl Malate

Diisostearyl malate; lightweight emollient and emulsifier; non-greasy feel, biodegradable, used in premium systems.

Trioctyldodecyl Citrate

Polyol ester for emollience and texture; low comedogenic, good for light formulas.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Ethyl Macadamiate

Ethyl ester of macadamia oleic acid; lightweight skin conditioning; low comedogenicity

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Arachidyl Alcohol

Waxy emulsion stabilizer and thickener, often paired with cetearyl alcohol; heavy feel, good for creams

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Hydrolyzed Silk

Hydrolyzed silk; amino acid-rich humectant for skin and hair; potential protein allergens for sensitive skin

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Seaweed-derived hydrating skin protectant rich in polysaccharides; filter to prevent microbial contamination

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Botanical extract for skin and hair conditioning; activity and irritation risk vary by source/purity, patch test for sensitive skin

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; traditional lightening agent; antioxidant for uneven skin tone.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1

Not decoded yet

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Botanical extract claimed for skin protection

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for repair; requires lipid carrier, unstable in aqueous phase

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 boosts collagen; use 0.1–1%, formulate with lipid carriers

Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3

Not decoded yet

Dextran

Polysaccharide for binding; water-soluble requires preservation.

Phytol

Phytol as co-solvent and fragrance enhancer; low safety at low levels, slight skin irritation at high concentrations.

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Hemp seed oil, non-psychoactive, emollient for skin and hair; high linoleic acid, needs antioxidants

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Isomalt

Isomalt humectant; tacky at high levels, non-comedogenic, suitable for sugar-free formulas.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearic alcohol; fatty alcohol for emulsion thickening/structure, often blended with soaps, moderate comedogenicity.

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mild non-ionic emulsifier and emollient, PEG-free; co-soluble with stearoyl lactylates

Xylitylglucoside

Polyol humectant with high water absorption and fresh feel; often co-used with propylene glycol for enhanced hydration.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Anhydroxylitol

Anhydrous xylitol, potent humectant; high hygroscopicity may cause stickiness at high levels.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer

Silicone-based emollient improving slip and antistatic feel, typical 1–5%

Coconut Alkanes

Coconut alkanes as solvents/emollients with medium volatility; check oxidation stability.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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