espa Optimal Skin ProSerum
espa ESPA Optimal Skin ProSerum lists 45 ingredients on its label, 42 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
- Coconut Alkanes
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
- Oenothera Biennis Oil
- Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
- Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
- Octyldodecanol
- Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
- Curcuma Longa Root Extract
- Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
- Limonene
- Tocopherol
- Cedrus Deodara Wood Oil
- Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
- Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
- Crithmum Maritimum Extract
- Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Glyceryl Oleate
- Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
- Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil
- Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
- Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
- Eugenol
- Alaria Esculenta Extract
- Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
- Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
- Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
- Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil
- Plumeria Acutifolia Flower Extract
- Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil
- Linalool
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
- Geraniol
- Citric Acid
- Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
- Glyceryl Stearate
- Lecithin
- Benzyl Benzoate
- Citronellol
- Benzyl Salicylate
- Farnesol
- Benzyl Alcohol
Highlights
Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains mineral oilContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergensContains alcohol
Key ingredients
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- Oryza Sativa Bran OilHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCoconut AlkanesOenothera Biennis OilRosa Canina Fruit Oil
- FRAGRANCE
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- HAIR CONDITIONING
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
- SKIN CONDITIONING
- Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Other ingredients
OctyldodecanolCoco-Caprylate/CaprateCurcuma Longa Root ExtractRibes Nigrum Seed OilLimoneneTocopherolCedrus Deodara Wood OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilCananga Odorata Flower OilCrithmum Maritimum ExtractLupinus Albus Seed ExtractRetinyl PalmitateGlyceryl OleateCitrus Nobilis Peel OilCitrus Reticulata Peel OilEugenia Caryophyllus Flower ExtractPogostemon Cablin Leaf ExtractEugenolAlaria Esculenta ExtractSpilanthes Acmella Flower ExtractRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractJasminum Sambac Flower ExtractMentha Viridis Leaf OilPlumeria Acutifolia Flower ExtractRosa Centifolia Flower OilLinaloolAscorbyl PalmitateGeraniolCitric AcidCardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine ExtractGlyceryl StearateLecithinBenzyl BenzoateCitronellolBenzyl SalicylateFarnesolBenzyl Alcohol
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oryza Sativa Bran Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 3 | Green |
| Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SOLVENT, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Coconut Alkanes | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SOLVENT | — | Green |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Oenothera Biennis Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Rosa Canina Fruit Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 3 | Green |
| Octyldodecanol | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Coco-Caprylate/Caprate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Curcuma Longa Root Extract | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING | — | Green |
| Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT | 0 · – | Green |
| Limonene | DEODORANT, SOLVENT, PERFUMING · 限制 III/88 III/167 III/168 | 1 · – | Yellow |
| Tocopherol | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Cedrus Deodara Wood Oil | FRAGRANCE | 1 · – | Green |
| Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/351 | 2 · 0 | Green |
| Cananga Odorata Flower Oil | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING · 限制 III/347 | 2 · – | Green |
| Crithmum Maritimum Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING, TONIC | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lupinus Albus Seed Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | — | Green |
| Retinyl Palmitate | SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/376 | 1 · 2 | Green |
| Glyceryl Oleate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, PERFUMING | 0 · – | Green |
| Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, TONIC | 1 · – | Green |
| Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil | DEODORANT, FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING, FLAVOURING · 限制 II/358 | 2 · 1 | Green |
| Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract | ASTRINGENT, FRAGRANCE, ORAL CARE, TONIC | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Eugenol | DENATURANT, TONIC, PERFUMING · 限制 III/71 | 2 · – | Yellow |
| Alaria Esculenta Extract | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | — | Green |
| Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract | ANTIMICROBIAL, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil | ASTRINGENT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/362 | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Plumeria Acutifolia Flower Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Linalool | DEODORANT, PERFUMING · 限制 III/84 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Ascorbyl Palmitate | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE | — | Green |
| Geraniol | TONIC, PERFUMING · 限制 III/78 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Citric Acid | BUFFERING, CHELATING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · – | Green |
| Glyceryl Stearate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lecithin | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Benzyl Benzoate | 附录 III · 限制 <empty>; as a constituent of other substances, or in mixtures, in concentrations equal to, or greater than 0.1% by weight; Shall not be placed on the market, or used, as substance or in mixtures in concentrations equal to ot greater than 0.1% by weight; Shall not be used as propellant in aerosols for any use. Aerosols dispenser containing the substance as propellant shall not be placed on the market | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Citronellol | PERFUMING · 限制 III/86 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Benzyl Salicylate | PERFUMING, LIGHT STABILIZER · 限制 III/75 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Farnesol | DEODORANT, PERFUMING · 限制 III/82 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Benzyl Alcohol | PRESERVATIVE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING · 限制 III/45 and V/34 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
Ingredients explained
- Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
- Rice bran oil rich in oryzanol and linoleic acid for conditioning; moderate comedogenic rating, mind oxidative stability.
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
- Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.
- Coconut Alkanes
- Coconut alkanes as solvents/emollients with medium volatility; check oxidation stability.
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
- Sunflower oil unsaponifiables; squalene, tocopherol. Lightweight antioxidant, sensitive to oxidation, store light-protected and N2 flushed.
- Oenothera Biennis Oil
- Natural oil rich in GLA; supports barrier, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants
- Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
- Rosehip oil, rich in oleic/linoleic acids for emolliency/repair; prone to oxidation, needs protection
- Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
- Linoleic-rich seed oil; high oxidation risk, requires antioxidants and light protection to maintain stability
- Octyldodecanol
- Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.
- Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
- Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.
- Curcuma Longa Root Extract
- Turmeric root extract, contains curcumin, colorant/antioxidant; high doses may sensitize.
- Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
- Blackcurrant seed oil rich in GLA used as an emollient; high in unsaturated fats, prone to oxidation
- Limonene
- Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability
- Tocopherol
- Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light
- Cedrus Deodara Wood Oil
- Cedarwood oil; woody fragrance, contains caryophyllene, must list as allergen 26
- Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
- Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.
- Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
- Ylang-ylang essential oil, natural fragrance; contains multiple allergens, restrict usage per EU regulations, avoid for sensitive skin
- Crithmum Maritimum Extract
- Sea fennel extract with ocean peptides for repair and antioxidant; water-soluble, used at low concentrations as active support.
- Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
- Botanical skin conditioning agent; rich in proteins and polyphenols, suits dry or barrier-compromised skin
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.
- Glyceryl Oleate
- Glyceride-based emulsifier and emolient with mild perfuming properties.
- Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
- Citrus essential oil; photosensitizing furanocoumarins present, limit daytime use; EU 26 allergen.
- Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil
- Citrus oil for scent; high phototoxicity means low use in daytime products.
- Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
- Clove flower extract containing eugenol (allergen); astringent and antimicrobial properties; high concentrations may irritate oral mucosa.
- Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
- Not decoded yet
- Eugenol
- Potent natural fragrance, EU restriction III/71; listed allergen, max 5%, caution for sensitive skin
- Alaria Esculenta Extract
- Alaria esculenta extract; alginates, 0.1–1%; film-forming and moisturizing; water phase, watch batch stability
- Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
- Spilanthol rich flower extract, used for soothing and antioxidant effects in repair formulas
- Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
- Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.
- Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
- Not decoded yet
- Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil
- Spearmint oil for cooling/fragrance, restricted; label allergens, limit for sensitive skin
- Plumeria Acutifolia Flower Extract
- Plumeria acutifolia flower extract; soothing and skin benefits; functional moisturizing/conditioning ingredient.
- Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Linalool
- Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
- Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.
- Geraniol
- Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.
- Citric Acid
- Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH
- Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
- Plant-derived skin-conditioning extract; used at low levels, stability must be verified.
- Glyceryl Stearate
- Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification
- Lecithin
- Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.
- Benzyl Benzoate
- Chelating agent for stability; restricted substance, not permitted as single component or in mixtures at ≥0.1%.
- Citronellol
- Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.
- Benzyl Salicylate
- UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.
- Farnesol
- Farnesol, a fixative and deodorant; listed as a EU 26 allergen, requires labeling, potential sensitizer.
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-19. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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