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Soothing · Oil control · Barrier repair

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

鱼腥草提取物

INCI
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Family
植物提取物
Typical use level
0.1–2%(公开配方学常见区间,非法规限值)
pH window
4.5–6.5

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Incompatibilities and failure points

1) 与含醛类香调(青醛、脂肪醛系)的香精叠加,会把腥味放大而不是掩盖,这是最常见的遮味失败原因。2) 与胺类原料、氨基酸类在偏碱条件下可能生成新的异味物质,气味方向变得更难预测。3) 多酚含量高,遇铁离子发暗;与阳离子调理剂、肽类同用可能浑浊。4) 高浓度醇体系(>20%)会把挥发性成分「提」出来,爽肤水与喷雾中腥味显著加重。5) 与高浓度电解质同用返浊。6) 与强氧化性体系不相容,活性与气味同时改变。

Stability

最先出问题的不是颜色而是气味:特征醛类在储存中氧化,气味由「青腥」转「陈腐」,消费者比检测更早发现。见光、高温、大顶空都加速这一变化;pH 偏碱时挥发释放更强。颜色方面见光遇氧由浅黄转褐。防护:终点 pH 控偏酸(4.5–5.5)、避光包装、缩小灌装顶空、选低气味或脱味规格、把用量往下压到概念够用的水平、必要时加抗氧剂延缓醛类氧化。

Processing notes

遮味方案会反过来限制香精选择,这是别处查不到的经验:常见做法是用柑橘、薄荷、绿茶这类清爽调压味,但它们本身挥发快,货放三个月后香气衰减、腥味回头,所以闻香判定必须做在加速试验的后期样上,只闻当天样一定会误判;木质调、粉香调、东方调基本压不住醛类腥气,白花调容易和腥味合成第三种更差的气味。投料必须在最后降温段(<40℃)、加盖低速搅拌,不能开盖高速把香气挥发掉再靠香精回补——那样批间气味完全不可控。加热上限 50℃。放大生产的坑:大锅顶空比小样大,气味损失与氧化都更明显,香精用量要按放大批重新定;建议给客户同时寄「当天样」和「40℃/1 个月样」做闻香对比,把气味预期写进打样确认单。

What it addresses

含黄酮类(槲皮苷、芦丁类)、酚酸与特征性挥发性醛类成分。配方中主要用于油痘线与舒缓线方向,常与锌盐、水杨酸温和体系或控油多糖搭配。这条料的技术难点几乎全在气味工程上:活性成分与异味来源部分重叠,去味越彻底、草本叙事和感官识别度就越弱。

Market direction

中国 / CN
常规使用方向的植物提取物,具药食背景但化妆品用需确认原料在国内已使用化妆品原料目录内并具备原料安全信息码;以最新官方文本为准。
欧盟 / EU
按常规植物提取物使用,安全评估需覆盖溶剂残留、农残与重金属;以最新官方文本为准。
美国 / US
一般作为化妆品成分常规使用,控油方向宣称不得越过 OTC 痤疮药品界线;以最新官方文本为准。
亚太 / APAC
日韩及东南亚常规使用,部分市场对药用背景植物另有清单要求,按目标市场规则复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.
08198
Standard Chinese name
鱼腥草(HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA)提取物
Max historical use, leave-on
13.949%
Source
国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
Listed (08198)
印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
Not listed
中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
Listed (34310) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING
欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name
蕺菜,折耳根,狗贴耳,Houttuynia cordata,Chameleon plant
CAS
无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
Suits formats
Toner · Essence · Serum · Gel · Lotion · Sheet mask · Cleanser
Halal and vegan
植物来源,通常可做 vegan;醇提规格的清真认定需供应商说明乙醇来源与残留并出具证明。
Cost band
Value
Evidence strength

Others in this family

Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.