dermalogica Sebum Clearing Masque

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Salicylic Acid
2. Water/Aqua/Eau
3. Kaolin
4. Bentonite
5. Glycerin
6. Polysorbate 20
7. Pentylene Glycol
8. Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
9. Cetearyl Alcohol
10. Butylene Glycol
11. Glyceryl Stearate Se
12. Polysorbate 60
13. Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
14. Bisabolol
15. Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
16. Menthol
17. 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid
18. Sebacic Acid
19. 1-10-Decanediol
20. Camphor
21. Farnesyl Acetate
22. Panthenyl Triacetate
23. Tocopheryl Acetate
24. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
25. Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
26. Sarcosine
27. Niacinamide
28. Yeast Extract
29. Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
30. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate
31. Panthenol
32. Zinc Gluconate
33. Caffeine
34. Biotin
35. Hydroxyethylcellulose
36. Disodium Edta
37. Capryloyl Glycine
38. 1,2-Hexanediol
39. Tropolone
40. Caprylyl Glycol
41. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
42. Ethylhexylglycerin
43. Methylpropanediol
44. Ci 77891
45. Ci 77947

Highlights

Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergensContains alcohol

Key ingredients

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Salicylic Acid

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

ABRASIVE

Kaolin

ABSORBENT

Bentonite

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polysorbate 20

SKIN CONDITIONING

Pentylene Glycol

FRAGRANCE

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Other ingredients

Cetearyl AlcoholButylene GlycolGlyceryl Stearate SePolysorbate 60Avena Sativa Kernel ExtractBisabololSpiraea Ulmaria ExtractMenthol10-Hydroxydecanoic AcidSebacic Acid1-10-DecanediolCamphorFarnesyl AcetatePanthenyl TriacetateTocopheryl AcetateDipotassium GlycyrrhizateCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark ExtractSarcosineNiacinamideYeast ExtractAesculus Hippocastanum Seed ExtractAmmonium GlycyrrhizatePanthenolZinc GluconateCaffeineBiotinHydroxyethylcelluloseDisodium EdtaCapryloyl Glycine1,2-HexanediolTropoloneCaprylyl GlycolCaprylhydroxamic AcidEthylhexylglycerinMethylpropanediolCi 77891Ci 77947

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Kaolin

Kaolin absorbent and bulk for powders/masks; check for heavy metals and comply with EU colorant limits IV/119

Bentonite

Natural clay for oil absorption in masks or thickening; no allergenicity, ensure high purity batches

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Natural seed oil rich in linoleic acid; moisturizing, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Emulsifier at 1–3%; oil-phase ingredient, easy emulsification, low sensitization.

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Antioxidant and soothing extract; mild abrasive properties, common in conditioning formulas

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Astringent/tonic plant extract for skin care; batch-to-batch variability, concentration control recommended

Menthol

Cooling and soothing agent at 0.5–2%; high levels may cause sensitivity or irritation, use caution around eyes and mucous membranes

10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid

Long-chain hydroxy fatty acid for emollience and barrier support; control concentration to avoid clogging

Sebacic Acid

Sebacic acid; lipophilic buffering agent and skin conditioner; check dispersion in formulation.

1-10-Decanediol

Not decoded yet

Camphor

Denaturant and fragrance with irritant and allergenic potential; strict concentration limits required for sensitive skin.

Farnesyl Acetate

Not decoded yet

Panthenyl Triacetate

Panthenyl triacetate, antistatic and hair conditioning; hydrolyzes to panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Antimicrobial and antioxidant extract; strictly limit dosage due to potential irritation

Sarcosine

Sarcosine, skin conditioning/pH buffer; check charge interaction with cationic surfactants.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Yeast Extract

Yeast extract for skin care and protection; common, low allergy risk

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Horse chestnut seed extract for skin care; soothing, used in circulation products

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Soothing anti-inflammatory and emulsifier; derived from licorice, minor allergen risk

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Biotin

Vitamin B7 nutrient claimant; topical effect limited, use at 1-20 ppm.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Water-soluble cellulose ether for thickening and suspension stabilization; sensitive to ions, electrolytes reduce viscosity, use at pH 7-8.

Disodium Edta

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Capryloyl Glycine

Functional surfactant with seborrhea-control properties; suited for oily or acne-prone skin.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Tropolone

Natural phenolic compound used as a skin conditioner; strong antioxidant activity, often a fragrance alternative.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Methylpropanediol

Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.

Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide inorganic pigment and UV filter; assess inhalation risk for nano-forms and EU restrictions

Ci 77947

Physical pigment and UV filter; strict particle size requirements for eye/lip.

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