ahava Pretinol™ Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Undecane
3. Cetearyl Alcohol
4. Isodecyl Isononanoate
5. Glycerin
6. Stearyl Dimethicone
7. Myristyl Myristate
8. Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
9. Glycol Stearate
10. Glyceryl Stearate
11. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
12. Tridecane
13. Caprylyl Methicone
14. Saccharide Isomerate
15. Propanediol
16. Potassium Sorbate
17. PEG-40 Stearate
18. PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer
19. Ceteareth-20
20. Parfum
21. Butylphenyl Methylpropional
22. Linalool
23. Geraniol
24. Hydroxycitronellal
25. Citronellol
26. Chlorphenesin
27. Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl
28. Sodium Benzoate
29. Sodium Citrate
30. Citric Acid
31. Corn Starch Modified
32. Hydrolyzed Corn Protein
33. Zea Mays Starch
34. Red 40
35. Zea Mays Oil
36. Ethylhexylglycerin
37. Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
38. Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
39. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
40. Tocopherol
41. Allantoin
42. Niacinamide
43. Beta-Carotene
44. Dunaliella Salina Extract
45. Maris Aqua

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains siliconesContains essential oilsContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Formulation view O/W cream with hydrocarbons and silicones for occlusive moisture, plus humectants and plant oils. Includes antioxidants and soothing extracts, ideal for dry rough skin nightly repair. Formulator note: multiple emulsifiers ensure silkiness, silicones enhance gloss, but high occlusion may suit oily skin poorly; complex preservative system requires fragrance sensitivity awareness.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

UndecaneCetearyl AlcoholStearyl DimethiconeMyristyl Myristate

ANTISTATIC

Isodecyl Isononanoate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Other ingredients

Glycol StearateGlyceryl StearateCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideTridecaneCaprylyl MethiconeSaccharide IsomeratePropanediolPotassium SorbatePEG-40 StearatePEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 CrosspolymerCeteareth-20ParfumButylphenyl MethylpropionalLinaloolGeraniolHydroxycitronellalCitronellolChlorphenesinEthyl Lauroyl Arginate HclSodium BenzoateSodium CitrateCitric AcidCorn Starch ModifiedHydrolyzed Corn ProteinZea Mays StarchRed 40Zea Mays OilEthylhexylglycerinLinum Usitatissimum Seed ExtractSpilanthes Acmella Flower ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceTocopherolAllantoinNiacinamideBeta-CaroteneDunaliella Salina ExtractMaris Aqua

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Undecane

Undecane; light aliphatic hydrocarbon emollient; high volatility, pair with occlusives, flammable

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Isodecyl Isononanoate

Light emollient providing a silky, non-greasy feel; commonly used in dry powders and makeup removers

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Stearyl Dimethicone

Silicone emulsifier/modifier for texture. Highly occlusive; use caution in acne-prone skin or if silicone sensitivity is a concern.

Myristyl Myristate

Di-C14 ester, waxy solid for thickening and conditioning; provides matte and smooth feel, low comedogenicity, good for compacts.

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Lightweight natural oil with mineral oil-like feel; oxidizes easily, add antioxidants and control dose.

Glycol Stearate

Glycol stearate emulsifier and thickener; improves texture and feel, generally well-tolerated.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Tridecane

Tridecane, a long-chain alkane acting as emollient and solvent; petrochemical-derived, inert and low toxicity.

Caprylyl Methicone

Volatile silicone, fresh feel, does not absorb oil, used in foundations and cushions.

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

PEG-40 Stearate

Water-soluble emulsifier for O/W; mild cleansing, high levels may be comedogenic, caution for sensitive skin.

PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Silicone polymer for silkiness and film formation; non-comedogenic, common in lotions and sunscreens.

Ceteareth-20

Not decoded yet

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Synthetic fragrance with floral notes; EU regulations limit usage, strict monitoring required.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Hydroxycitronellal

Hydroxycitronellal, sensitizing fragrance, EU limit <0.1%; avoid use as aerosol propellant.

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl

Not decoded yet

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Corn Starch Modified

Modified corn starch, absorbent/film former; distinguish food/cosmetic grade, control Aw for stability.

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein

Hydrolysed corn protein conditioner at 1–10%; small peptides, prone to browning, chelators recommended

Zea Mays Starch

Corn starch for oil absorption and suspension; powder, hygroscopic, needs moisture control

Red 40

Common water-soluble synthetic dye; azo-based, potential sensitizer; check local prohibited colorant lists

Zea Mays Oil

Corn oil; light emollient and stabilizer. Low comedogenic rating (1). Use at 2-5% as carrier.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract

Flaxseed extract for moisture and natural aroma; contains oleic acid with moderate comedogenicity, limit levels for oily skin.

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract

Spilanthol rich flower extract, used for soothing and antioxidant effects in repair formulas

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Beta-Carotene

Beta-carotene for color and antioxidants; oil-soluble, protect from oxidation and color change.

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Microalgal extract used as a skin conditioning agent for soothing and barrier support; no public irritancy or comedogenic data.

Maris Aqua

Seawater solvent & humectant; mineral-rich, caution on sensitive skin

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