dermaquest Advanced DermaClear Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Salicylic Acid-
2. Water
3. Sd Alcohol 40-B
4. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
5. Glycolic Acid
6. Glycerin
7. Azelaic Acid
8. Hexyl Laurate
9. Glyceryl Stearate
10. Cetearyl Olivate
11. Cetearyl Alcohol
12. Butylene Glycol
13. Sorbitol
14. Squalane
15. Lactic Acid
16. Sorbitan Olivate
17. PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
18. Niacinamide
19. Cetyl Alcohol
20. Sodium Hyaluronate
21. Dicetyl Phosphate
22. Ceteth-10 Phosphate
23. Stearic Acid
24. PEG-100 Stearate
25. Sea Water
26. Suberic Acid
27. Sebacic Acid
28. Undecanedioic Acid
29. Tocopheryl Acetate
30. Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
31. Isopentyldiol
32. Laminaria Digitata Extract
33. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
34. Saccharide Isomerate
35. Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
36. Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract
37. Butyrospermum Parkii Nut Extract
38. Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
39. Retinyl Linoleate
40. Dimethicone
41. Ethyl Linoleate
42. Hexylresorcinol
43. Yeast Polysaccharides
44. Propylene Glycol
45. Hedera Helix Leaf Extract
46. Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
47. Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
48. Arnica Montana Flower Extract
49. Parietaria Officinalis Extract
50. Phenoxyethanol
51. Caprylyl Glycol
52. Ethylhexylglycerin
53. Hexylene Glycol
54. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
55. Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
56. Carbomer
57. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
58. Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
59. Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
60. Primula Veris Flower Extract
61. Alchemilla Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
62. Veronica Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
63. Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
64. Achillea Millefolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
65. Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
66. Salix Alba Bark Extract
67. Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
68. Mitracarpus Scaber Extract
69. PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
70. Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
71. Oleanolic Acid
72. Glycine
73. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
74. Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
75. Maltodextrin
76. Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
77. Xanthan Gum
78. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
79. Ammonium Hydroxide
80. Tocopherol
81. Disodium EDTA
82. Sodium Hydroxide
83. Alcohol
84. Potassium Sorbate
85. Sodium Metabisulfite
86. Limonene

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains animal-derivedContains PEGContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains silicones

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

ASTRINGENT

Sd Alcohol 40-B

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

BUFFERING

Glycolic AcidAzelaic Acid

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hexyl LaurateGlyceryl Stearate

Other ingredients

Salicylic Acid-Cetearyl OlivateCetearyl AlcoholButylene GlycolSorbitolSqualaneLactic AcidSorbitan OlivatePPG-12/Smdi CopolymerNiacinamideCetyl AlcoholSodium HyaluronateDicetyl PhosphateCeteth-10 PhosphateStearic AcidPEG-100 StearateSea WaterSuberic AcidSebacic AcidUndecanedioic AcidTocopheryl AcetateLauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate CrosspolymerIsopentyldiolLaminaria Digitata ExtractChlorella Vulgaris ExtractSaccharide IsomerateTrifolium Pratense Flower ExtractBackhousia Citriodora Leaf ExtractButyrospermum Parkii Nut ExtractMangifera Indica Seed ButterRetinyl LinoleateDimethiconeEthyl LinoleateHexylresorcinolYeast PolysaccharidesPropylene GlycolHedera Helix Leaf ExtractCucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractSambucus Nigra Flower ExtractArnica Montana Flower ExtractParietaria Officinalis ExtractPhenoxyethanolCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinHexylene GlycolMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilImperata Cylindrica Root ExtractCarbomerAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerMalva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractMentha Piperita Leaf ExtractPrimula Veris Flower ExtractAlchemilla Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractVeronica Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractMelissa Officinalis Leaf ExtractAchillea Millefolium Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractHydrolyzed Vegetable ProteinSalix Alba Bark ExtractArctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf ExtractMitracarpus Scaber ExtractPEG-60 Almond GlyceridesNordihydroguaiaretic AcidOleanolic AcidGlycineHydrolyzed Wheat ProteinHydrolyzed Wheat StarchMaltodextrinSyringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture ExtractXanthan GumMagnesium Aluminum SilicateAmmonium HydroxideTocopherolDisodium EDTASodium HydroxideAlcoholPotassium SorbateSodium MetabisulfiteLimonene

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Salicylic Acid-

Not decoded yet

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Sd Alcohol 40-B

Denatured solvent for fragrance/oil dilution, contains trace isopropyl thiol (sensitizer), irritating at high levels

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Azelaic Acid

Acne and pigment agent; 15-20% can be irritating, needs controlled release or lower doses.

Hexyl Laurate

Light ester emollient for silky feel; 1-5%, monitor oxidative stability

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Cetearyl Olivate

Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Sorbitol

Polyol humectant with strong hygroscopy; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives; also a solvent or adjuster.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Film former, hair styling, volatile, dry touch, non-comedogenic.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Dicetyl Phosphate

Emulsifier and auxiliary surfactant for stable lotions; used at low levels in creams.

Ceteth-10 Phosphate

Sodium/salt of ceteth-10 phosphate, gentle surfactant/emulsifier for rinse-off products; test compatibility with cationics.

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Sea Water

Natural ingredient with salts; acts as solvent or humectant, high salt content may feel gritty

Suberic Acid

Not decoded yet

Sebacic Acid

Sebacic acid; lipophilic buffering agent and skin conditioner; check dispersion in formulation.

Undecanedioic Acid

Not decoded yet

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer

Film-forming crosspolymer for strong hair hold; low levels yield weak fixation.

Isopentyldiol

Solvent at 1–10%; helps dissolve actives, fresh feel

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Seaweed extract for skin protection; moderate concentration to avoid osmotic irritation.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Red clover flower extract; astringent and fragrance, test for sensitization

Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract

Backhousia citriodora leaf with tannins; astringent and conditioning, high levels may irritate.

Butyrospermum Parkii Nut Extract

Not decoded yet

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Plant butter rich in fatty acids; provides lipid occlusion and emollience. Use with emulsifiers.

Retinyl Linoleate

Mild retinoid ester for cell turnover; light-sensitive, ideal for PM use, patch test for sensitive skin.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Ethyl Linoleate

Fatty acid ester emollient for dryness; prone to oxidation, requires light protection.

Hexylresorcinol

Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; typical range 0.1-1.5%, potential irritation at high levels, control pH.

Yeast Polysaccharides

Yeast-derived polysaccharides (e.g., β-glucan) for film formation, humectancy and barrier repair; well-suited to post-procedure care.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Hedera Helix Leaf Extract

Ivy leaf extract, saponins, anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictor, low conc.

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Botanical extract for conditioning; note extraction impact on active retention

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Plant extract for soothing and toning; high levels of crude extracts may sensitize.

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Arnica extract; plant soothing/perfume alternative; low conc, potential sensitizer, patch test advised

Parietaria Officinalis Extract

Parietaria extract for soothing and emollient conditioning. Plant-derived, well-tolerated at standard levels; no known severe compatibility issues.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Hexylene Glycol

Polyol solvent and humectant with penetration enhancement; limit concentration to avoid irritation, no specific allergen tag

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Tea tree oil, antibacterial and sebum regulating; highly sensitizing at concentrate level, dilute; avoid on broken skin.

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Imperata root extract; traditional TCM ingredient for skin conditioning. No public data on irritancy or comedogenicity.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Mallow extract for moisturizing and soothing conditioning. Contains mucilaginous polysaccharides, gentle and non-irritating; suitable for dry/sensitive skin.

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Mint extract for cooling sensation; contains menthol, mild irritation potential.

Primula Veris Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Alchemilla Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

Veronica Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lemon balm extract for soothing; volatile oils, low allergy risk, light sensitive.

Achillea Millefolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Peptide conditioning agent; control pH to prevent degradation, used in hair and skin care.

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Contains natural salicylic acid precursors, mild exfoliating and antibacterial; may irritate at high levels; avoid in sensitive skin.

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract

Bearberry leaf extract; astringent/soothing, for sensitive skin, strict concentration control.

Mitracarpus Scaber Extract

Not decoded yet

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Gentle almond-based PEG emulsifier; good for sensitive skin, monitor PEG hydrolysis

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Lipid peroxide scavenger, BHT alternative; low dose (0.1–0.25%), check photostability

Oleanolic Acid

Oleanolic acid derived from rose petals; terpene compound with floral scent used as a skin conditioning agent.

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Hydrolyzed protein for hair and skin conditioning; potential allergen, use low levels in sensitive products

Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch

Hydrolyzed wheat starch for moisture and viscosity; gluten-derived, caution for gluten-sensitive or allergic populations.

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Not decoded yet

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Oil-absorbing powder at 5–20%; for pressed/powder makeup, high levels may feel heavy

Ammonium Hydroxide

Strong alkaline pH adjuster; use in low concentrations to neutralize acids, avoid direct mixing with strong acids.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant/preservative at 0.05–0.2%; irritating for sensitive skin, avoid with oxidizers

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

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