marlowe No. 023 Hand Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Mineral Oil
3. Glycerin
4. Stearic Acid
5. Sd Alcohol 40-B
6. Glyceryl Stearate
7. Cetyl Alcohol
8. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
9. PEG-40 Stearate
10. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
11. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
12. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
13. Cocos Nucifera Oil
14. Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
15. Salix Alba Bark Extract
16. Saccharina Longicruris Extract
17. Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
18. Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract
19. Phenoxyethanol
20. Cetyl Esters
21. Dimethicone
22. Petrolatum
23. Carbomer
24. Sorbitan Tristearate
25. Sodium Hydroxide
26. Ethylhexylglycerin
27. Fragrance
28. Tetrasodium EDTA
29. Ascorbic Acid
30. Tocopheryl Acetate
31. Butylene Glycol

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains PEGContains essential oilsContains siliconesContains fragrance

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Mineral OilGlyceryl StearateCetyl Alcohol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

CLEANSING

Stearic Acid

ASTRINGENT

Sd Alcohol 40-B

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Other ingredients

PEG-40 StearateButyrospermum Parkii ButterAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceAloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractCocos Nucifera OilAvena Sativa Kernel ExtractSalix Alba Bark ExtractSaccharina Longicruris ExtractCamellia Oleifera Leaf ExtractPassiflora Incarnata Fruit ExtractPhenoxyethanolCetyl EstersDimethiconePetrolatumCarbomerSorbitan TristearateSodium HydroxideEthylhexylglycerinFragranceTetrasodium EDTAAscorbic AcidTocopheryl AcetateButylene Glycol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Mineral Oil

Occlusive emollient preventing water loss; must use high-purity medical grade to avoid impurities.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Sd Alcohol 40-B

Denatured solvent for fragrance/oil dilution, contains trace isopropyl thiol (sensitizer), irritating at high levels

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

PEG-40 Stearate

Water-soluble emulsifier for O/W; mild cleansing, high levels may be comedogenic, caution for sensitive skin.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe vera leaf extract for soothing and humectant; monitor polysaccharide level and endotoxins

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Occlusive moisturizing oil at 1–10%; highly comedogenic, use with caution for oily skin.

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Antioxidant and soothing extract; mild abrasive properties, common in conditioning formulas

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Contains natural salicylic acid precursors, mild exfoliating and antibacterial; may irritate at high levels; avoid in sensitive skin.

Saccharina Longicruris Extract

Kelp extract; humectant/repair; high polysaccharides; monitor salt load in formula.

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Camellia oleifera leaf extract containing tea polyphenols; acts as astringent and skin conditioner, monitor raw material consistency.

Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract

Passion fruit extract; claimed for skin conditioning/protection; botanical extract requiring screening for impurities.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Cetyl Esters

Blended cetyl esters used as emollient skin conditioning agents to provide softness and occlusion.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Petrolatum

Mineral oil occlusive and antistatic; requires full refining history to ensure absence of potential carcinogens.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Sorbitan Tristearate

Non-ionic emulsifier for lotions; pairs with water-soluble surfactants.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chelator removing metal ions to enhance antioxidant and preservative efficacy; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, no direct skincare function.

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

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