Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Incompatibilities and failure points

洗护里最典型的配好了就浑浊。与季铵盐类调理剂(聚季铵盐-10、聚季铵盐-7、山嵛基三甲基氯化铵等)直接电荷中和,先出现丝状絮凝,再整体浑浊、粘度崩塌,二合一洗发水、护发素、阳离子调理型沐浴露里几乎必然发生,而且絮凝之后基本救不回来。阳离子瓜尔胶同理。与水解小麦蛋白、丝蛋白、胶原等蛋白类高浓度共存络合沉淀。与铁离子生成蓝黑色单宁铁,这是墨水的老反应,同样会发生在料体里。与卡波姆体系在低pH下可能出现粘度下降。pH升到7以上鞣花酸溶解度上升但氧化变色明显加快。

Stability

见光见氧变深棕;高温加速鞣花单宁水解生成鞣花酸,而鞣花酸在水中溶解度很低,水解到一定程度会出现细小悬浮或瓶底沉积。这不是微生物污染,但客户一定会当质量问题投诉,所以稳定性必须跑满三个月并把析出作为独立判据。常见做法:pH控在4.0–5.5、加0.05–0.1%螯合剂、避光包材;必要时用丙二醇、甘油或少量PEG-40氢化蓖麻油提高对鞣花酸的容忍度。留样要同时看颜色、澄清度和瓶底,不要只拍一张正面照。

Processing notes

洗护配方的加料顺序必须写死:先把阳离子调理剂在主体表活中彻底分散、体系稀释到位、pH调好,再在低速搅拌下把已经稀释十倍的石榴提取液缓慢滴加进去,滴加时间不少于十分钟。把浓提取液直接倒进含阳离子的锅里,滴入点局部浓度过高会立刻起絮,起絮之后整锅报废。高阳离子的护发素类建议直接放弃水相直投,改用低添加或换成非单宁型植提,这一点在方案阶段就要跟客户讲,不要等打样失败再解释。膏霜类属后加料,降温至40℃以下投。设备上避免与含铁污渍接触。放大的坑就在滴加速度:小试倒得快看不出问题,大罐一定翻车,所以稀释倍数和滴加时长要作为正式工艺参数写进SOP。

What it addresses

主要含鞣花单宁(如安石榴苷)及其水解产物鞣花酸,属水解型单宁,在配方中作为水相多酚抗氧化组分,同时带来一定的收敛型肤感。单宁含量直接决定配伍难度:含量越高,和阳离子、蛋白冲突越剧烈,所以来料规格里必须写明单宁或鞣花酸的检测口径。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为化妆品原料常规使用,需确认原料收录状态与原料安全信息;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

欧盟框架下作为化妆品成分常规使用,安全评估需覆盖果源部位与提取溶剂;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

美国按化妆品管理常规使用,关注成分安全支持文件与标签准确性,以及设施与产品登记义务;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚主要市场普遍可用,需按各国原料目录与宣称管理制度逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

06135

Standard Chinese name

石榴（PUNICA GRANATUM）果提取物

Max historical use, leave-on

87.566%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (06135)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (58770) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

石榴提取物,石榴果提取物,鞣花单宁来源,Pomegranate Extract,Punica granatum

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Toner · Sheet mask · Cream · Lotion · Cleanser

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做vegan主张;需确认载体与工艺助剂无动物源,清真需供应商出具证明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

高

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