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Antioxidant · Hydrating · Barrier repair

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

枸杞(果)提取物

INCI
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Family
多糖
Typical use level
0.1–3%(公开配方学常见区间,非法规限值)
pH window
4.5–6.5

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Incompatibilities and failure points

1) 与低强度防腐体系(仅低用量苯氧乙醇、或所谓「无防腐」路线)搭配风险高:糖与多糖是现成的碳源,原本能过的防腐方案加了这条料就可能过不了。2) 与高浓度电解质同用,酸性多糖可能絮凝、体系黏度掉。3) 与阳离子调理剂同用可能与酸性多糖结合成絮。4) 类胡萝卜素是脂溶性的,在纯水剂中增溶不足会起雾或出现油点。5) 遇铁离子与强氧化剂褪色。6) 与胺类在高温下共处会加速美拉德型褐变并产生焦甜气味。

Stability

两个现实问题:颜色和微生物。类胡萝卜素见光遇氧褪色变暗,由橙黄转土黄;糖类在偏碱与高温下发生褐变并可能带出气味;含糖体系水活度高,水剂与面膜液的微生物挑战难度明显上升,生产环境与灌装暴露时间的影响被放大。常见防护:选择低糖/已纯化的多糖规格、避光包装、终点 pH 控弱酸、加螯合与抗氧剂、并且按含糖体系重新设计防腐并实测。

Processing notes

最实用的一条:防腐体系必须跟着调。含糖植提进配方后,原来通过的防腐方案不能沿用,必须重做防腐挑战试验;水基面膜液、无醇爽肤水、高水活度啫喱尤其要把防腐余量留足,并考虑缩短灌装暴露时间。采购规格上要把固含量和糖含量写进去,只写「多少倍提取」无法评估微生物风险与成本。投料放在降温 45℃ 以下的后段,避免与高温保温段共存——那一段既褐变又伤类胡萝卜素。加热上限 55℃。设备清洗要按含糖料体加强,残留糖膜是后续批次染菌的常见源头。放大生产的坑:面膜液在无纺布上的颜色变化比料体本身快,加速试验必须连布一起做,否则上市后会出现「料没问题、布发黄」的投诉。

What it addresses

主要成分是枸杞多糖,另含玉米黄质等类胡萝卜素、甜菜碱与酚酸。配方中用于保湿成膜与抗氧化方向,药食同源的叙事在东亚与出海市场都好讲。技术上要同时处理两件事:多糖与残糖带来的微生物余量下降,以及类胡萝卜素带来的颜色不稳定。

Market direction

中国 / CN
常规使用方向的植物提取物,药食同源背景不等于化妆品可用,需确认原料在国内已使用化妆品原料目录内并具备原料安全信息码;以最新官方文本为准。
欧盟 / EU
按常规植物提取物使用,安全评估需覆盖溶剂残留、农残与重金属项;以最新官方文本为准。
美国 / US
一般作为化妆品成分常规使用;以最新官方文本为准。
亚太 / APAC
日韩及东南亚常规使用,按目标市场规则复核植物来源与部位申报;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.
04830
Standard Chinese name
宁夏枸杞(LYCIUM BARBARUM)果提取物
Max historical use, leave-on
1%
Source
国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
Listed (04830)
印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
Not listed
中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
Listed (57462) · 功能 ASTRINGENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING
欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name
枸杞,宁夏枸杞,枸杞子,Lycium barbarum,Goji berry,Wolfberry
CAS
无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
Suits formats
Essence · Serum · Cream · Lotion · Sheet mask · Toner · Gel
Halal and vegan
植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商就加工助剂与载体出具证明。
Cost band
Mid
Evidence strength

Others in this family

Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.