Hydrating · Conditioning · Barrier repair · Firming
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
水解大豆蛋白
- INCI
- Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
- Family
- 蛋白与肽
- Typical use level
- 1–5%
- pH window
- 4.5–7.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
最典型的翻车点是与富含单宁的草本提取物同用。绿茶、金缕梅、五倍子、石榴皮、橡树皮这一类多酚含量高的提取物会与蛋白发生络合,体系先发浑、再出现丝絮状悬浮物,静置几小时到几天就分层析出,浓度越高发生得越快;要么把两者拆到不同产品里,要么先做 1:1 稀液小样相容测试并同时压低两者用量。在接近蛋白等电点的偏酸 pH 下,阴离子表活(月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、月桂醇硫酸酯钠一类)会与蛋白形成不溶复合物,洗护体系表现为浊度上升与粘度突然下降。高浓度电解质(氯化钠、硫酸镁)与乙醇超过约 20% 会让蛋白脱水析出,做澄清型水剂时尤其明显。与阳离子调理剂(聚季铵盐类)在特定比例区间会形成凝聚物,少量凝聚有利于沉积,过量则起絮、冲洗后发涩,必须按比例扫一遍。与过氧化物、过硫酸盐这类强氧化体系同用会使蛋白氧化,伴随异味与颜色加深。
Stability
水解蛋白是整个配方里微生物营养价值最高的原料之一,防腐必须按广谱足量设计并做防腐挑战测试,这一点没有商量余地。常温、pH 4–7 区间相对稳定;pH 低于 3.5 或高于 9 长期放置会继续水解,分子量下移,同时伴随色泽加深与豆腥味、氨味增强。热是它最主要的外观风险:超过 80℃ 长时间受热会促发美拉德类反应,料体由浅黄逐步转为棕黄,这是这类原料最常见的客诉来源,而且小样放一个月往往看不出来,必须做 45℃ 三个月的加速跟踪。见光影响相对有限,但当配方里同时有还原糖或氨基酸类保湿剂时,高温储存的黄变会被明显放大。反复冻融后可能出现轻微浑浊,冻融测试要单独列一组。
Processing notes
按水相原料管理,但建议放到冷却阶段投:乳化完成、料温降到 45℃ 以下再补入,能同时避开黄变和异味两个坑。原料多为 20–40% 固含的粘稠水溶液,极易挂壁,称量后必须用配方内的水冲洗容器残留并一并入锅,否则实际投料量会系统性偏低。溶解时先用部分配方水稀释 5–10 倍再入主锅,直接倒进高剪切区会打出大量泡沫,泡沫带到灌装环节就是装量不足和液位不齐。与草本提取物同配方时,把提取物和蛋白各自稀释后缓慢互加并边加边观察,不要两股浓液直接对冲,局部高浓度产生的絮块搅不开。桶装料开封后染菌极快,分装必须密封冷藏并规定开封效期,放大生产优先安排整桶用完的批量。
What it addresses
大豆蛋白经酶解或酸解后得到的多肽与游离氨基酸混合物,分子量分布是它唯一重要的选型参数。较大分子量段倾向在角质层与毛发表面形成连续的亲水膜,带来即时的紧绷与顺滑手感;较小分子量段水溶性更好、更容易分散进水相,常用于保湿与肤感调理方向。同一个 INCI 名下不同分子量的原料在配方里的表现差别很大,采购时必须向供应商索取分子量分布数据,不能只看名称。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 属常见已用于化妆品的植物蛋白方向,按现行原料目录与备案要求核对来源、规格与安全信息资料,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 作为化妆品成分常规使用,需注意大豆致敏性的沟通口径,并在产品信息文件中保留完整的原料档案与供应商资料,以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向。大豆属主要食物致敏原之一,标签措辞与客服应答口径需在打样阶段就与品牌方对齐,以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚常规使用方向,部分买家会额外问询转基因来源与产地证明,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 06287
- Standard Chinese name
- 水解大豆蛋白
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 38%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (06287)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (76584) · 功能 ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 大豆蛋白水解物,大豆肽,大豆多肽,Glycine max,Soy Peptide
- CAS
- 未确认
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Lotion · Cream · Sheet mask · Toner · Cleanser
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。出海订单还需提前确认品牌方是否要求非转基因来源文件。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.