martiderm Acniover Serum
martiderm MARTIDERM Acniover Serum lists 29 ingredients on its label, 26 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Water
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Silica
- Dibutyl Adipate
- Niacinamide
- Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
- Propanediol
- Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
- Glycerin
- Lactitol
- Xylitol
- Lactic Acid
- Copper Sulfate
- Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract
- Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract
- Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
- Citric Acid
- Cyclohexasiloxane
- Isoceteth-20
- Benzophenone-4
- PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Disodium EDTA
- Sodium Metabisulfite
- Sodium Chloride
- Fragrance
- Sodium Benzoate
- Potassium Sorbate
- Ci 19140
Highlights
Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance
Formulation view Water-based serum utilizing cyclopentasiloxane for a smooth feel. Key actives include niacinamide, ferment lysate, and lactic acid for oil control and exfoliation. Preserved with benzoates and sorbates. Suitable for oily or combination skin. Observation: Silicones reduce occlusion to aid penetration, but acid-polymer compatibility and microbial control in the ferment-based system require strict formulation testing.
Key ingredients
- ANTIPLAQUE
- Water
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- CyclopentasiloxaneDibutyl Adipate
- ABRASIVE
- Silica
- SMOOTHING
- Niacinamide
- SKIN CONDITIONING
- Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
- SOLVENT
- Propanediol
- VISCOSITY CONTROLLING
- Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Other ingredients
GlycerinLactitolXylitolLactic AcidCopper SulfateNelumbo Nucifera Germ ExtractNymphaea Coerulea Flower ExtractChlorella Vulgaris ExtractCitric AcidCyclohexasiloxaneIsoceteth-20Benzophenone-4PEG/PPG-18/18 DimethiconeDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerDisodium EDTASodium MetabisulfiteSodium ChlorideFragranceSodium BenzoatePotassium SorbateCi 19140
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water | ANTIPLAQUE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Cyclopentasiloxane | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Silica | ABRASIVE, ABSORBENT, ANTICAKING, BULKING, OPACIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dibutyl Adipate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, FILM FORMING, PLASTICISER, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Niacinamide | SMOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lactococcus Ferment Lysate | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · – | Green |
| Propanediol | SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer | VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glycerin | DENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lactitol | HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Xylitol | ANTI-SEBORRHEIC, DEODORANT, HUMECTANT, FLAVOURING, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lactic Acid | BUFFERING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Copper Sulfate | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | — | Green |
| Chlorella Vulgaris Extract | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · – | Green |
| Citric Acid | BUFFERING, CHELATING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Cyclohexasiloxane | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Isoceteth-20 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Benzophenone-4 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer | SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Disodium EDTA | CHELATING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Metabisulfite | ANTIOXIDANT, PRESERVATIVE, REDUCING · 限制 III/99 V/9 | 3 · 0 | Yellow |
| Sodium Chloride | BULKING, FRAGRANCE, ORAL CARE, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Fragrance | 矫味剂,增香剂 | — | Yellow |
| Sodium Benzoate | ANTICORROSIVE, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/1 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Potassium Sorbate | FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/4 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Ci 19140 | COLORANT, HAIR DYEING · 限制 IV/44 (CI 19140) III/189 (Acid Yellow 23; Acid Yellow 23 Aluminum lake) | 0 · 0 | Green |
Ingredients explained
- Water
- Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.
- Silica
- Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products
- Dibutyl Adipate
- Light ester, solvent and emollient, fresh feel and volatility, non-comedogenic.
- Niacinamide
- Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity
- Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
- Lactococcus lysate; provides amino acids and polysaccharides for moisture, fermentation reduces allergens.
- Propanediol
- Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative
- Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
- Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.
- Glycerin
- Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
- Lactitol
- Sorbitan-based polyol humectant at 3–10%; gentle, compatible with alcohols; slight tack at high levels.
- Xylitol
- Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.
- Lactic Acid
- AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.
- Copper Sulfate
- Not decoded yet
- Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract
- Lotus seed germ extract for moisturizing and soothing; water-soluble polysaccharide source
- Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Extract
- Blue lotus flower extract used for antioxidant conditioning; water extracts are prone to oxidation, protect from light
- Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
- Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability
- Citric Acid
- Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH
- Cyclohexasiloxane
- Volatile cyclic silicone evaporating without residue; ensure compliance with EU limits on cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, use octamer
- Isoceteth-20
- Not decoded yet
- Benzophenone-4
- Not decoded yet
- PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
- PEG/PPG siloxane; emulsifier/thickener; low irrit, watch PEG total conc limits
- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Crosslinked silicone thickener at 0.5-2%; silky/matte feel, non-comedogenic, partial oil phase incompatibility, use co-solvent/pre-emulsification.
- Disodium EDTA
- Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy
- Sodium Metabisulfite
- Antioxidant/preservative at 0.05–0.2%; irritating for sensitive skin, avoid with oxidizers
- Sodium Chloride
- Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps
- Fragrance
- Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components
- Sodium Benzoate
- Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates
- Potassium Sorbate
- Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate
- Ci 19140
- Acid Yellow 23 lake; for coloring and hair dyeing. High water solubility and precipitation risk, pH control required.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-20. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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