refa Face-Up Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Glycerin
3. Isotridecyl Isononanoate
4. Octyldodecanol
5. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
6. Squalane
7. Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
8. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
9. Zea Mays Oil
10. Retinyl Palmitate
11. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
12. Tocopherol
13. Ceramide AS
14. Ceramide NP
15. Alcaligenes Polysaccharides
16. Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
17. Alaria Esculenta Extract
18. Acetyl Decapeptide-3
19. Methyl Carboxymethylphenyl Aminocarboxypropylphosphonate
20. Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
21. Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
22. Butylene Glycol
23. Acacia Senegal Gum
24. Glyceryl Glucoside
25. Octyldodecyl Xyloside
26. PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
27. Glyceryl Behenate
28. Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate
29. Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate
30. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
31. Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate
32. Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate
33. Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
34. Silver Oxide
35. Phytic Acid
36. Pentasodium Pentetate
37. Sodium Chloride
38. T-Butyl Alcohol
39. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains PEGContains alcohol

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Isotridecyl IsononanoateOctyldodecanolSqualaneMacadamia Ternifolia Seed OilSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

EMULSION STABILISING

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Other ingredients

Zea Mays OilRetinyl PalmitateAscorbyl TetraisopalmitateTocopherolCeramide ASCeramide NPAlcaligenes PolysaccharidesCrocus Chrysanthus Bulb ExtractAlaria Esculenta ExtractAcetyl Decapeptide-3Methyl Carboxymethylphenyl AminocarboxypropylphosphonateCholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl GlutamateSodium Dilauramidoglutamide LysineButylene GlycolAcacia Senegal GumGlyceryl GlucosideOctyldodecyl XylosidePEG-30 DipolyhydroxystearateGlyceryl BehenatePolyglyceryl-6 OctastearateDipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/TetraisostearateCaprylic/Capric TriglyceridePolyglyceryl-2 IsostearatePolyglyceryl-10 IsostearatePolyglyceryl-10 StearateSilver OxidePhytic AcidPentasodium PentetateSodium ChlorideT-Butyl AlcoholPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Isotridecyl Isononanoate

Light, dry ester for emulsions; low comedogenicity, suitable for oily/sensitive skin formulas as a light oil alternative.

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Macadamia oil, rich in palmitoleic, good penetration; light feel; non-comedogenic.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Zea Mays Oil

Corn oil; light emollient and stabilizer. Low comedogenic rating (1). Use at 2-5% as carrier.

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Ceramide AS

Ceramides for barrier repair; used at low levels with other lipids; beneficial for dry, compromised skin.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Alcaligenes Polysaccharides

Bacterial polysaccharide; humectant and emulsion stabilizer; bio-based, low sensitization; verify batch consistency

Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract

Saffron bulb extract for skin conditioning; low concentration for antioxidant/soothing concept, monitor botanical batch variability.

Alaria Esculenta Extract

Alaria esculenta extract; alginates, 0.1–1%; film-forming and moisturizing; water phase, watch batch stability

Acetyl Decapeptide-3

Not decoded yet

Methyl Carboxymethylphenyl Aminocarboxypropylphosphonate

Not decoded yet

Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Mild amino acid ester emulsifier/conditioner; part of emulsion systems, low irritancy, comedogenicity not assessed

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Amino acid-based humectant with moisture-binding properties; low irritancy, improves skin feel and hydration.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Acacia Senegal Gum

Natural film-former and fragrance agent; used for viscosity or film, check purity for allergens

Glyceryl Glucoside

Polyol humectant with light, non-sticky feel; less tacky than glycerin

Octyldodecyl Xyloside

Non-ionic glucoside surfactant for cleansing and emulsification; mild, can substitute some syndet, 1–5%.

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

W/O emulsifier for fatty acids; contains PEG, verify preservative compatibility.

Glyceryl Behenate

Emulsifier and thickener with emollient properties; high melting point, low comedogenicity.

Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate

Not decoded yet

Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate

Polyol ester thickener/conditioner, 2–5%; high oil phase, suitable for pastes/creams.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate

Gentle emulsifier for O/W systems; sulfate-free, suitable for sensitive skin

Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate

Gentle emollient and emulsifier; improves texture, low comedogenic risk

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate emulsifier; multi-source, mild, co-emulsifier

Silver Oxide

Antimicrobial agent, mostly in medical dressings; rare in cosmetics, monitor for silver accumulation

Phytic Acid

Natural chelator for formula stability; acidic, may shift pH at high levels.

Pentasodium Pentetate

Gentle chelator replacing EDTA; prevents oxidation discoloration, low dosage

Sodium Chloride

Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps

T-Butyl Alcohol

Fast-evaporating solvent; sharp odor and potential irritation at high levels, limit usage

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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