skinn Pep-40 Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
2. Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
3. Squalane
4. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
5. Glycerin
6. Pentapeptide-48
7. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
8. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
9. Acetyl Octapeptide-3
10. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
11. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
12. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
13. Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
14. Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
15. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
16. Hydrogenated Lecithin
17. Phenethyl Alcohol
18. Ascorbyl Glucoside
19. Trehalose
20. Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Extract
21. Tranexamic Acid
22. Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
23. Fructose
24. Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
25. Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate
26. Disodium Phosphate
27. Lecithin
28. Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
29. Cymbidium Grandiflorum Flower Extract
30. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
31. Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract
32. Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
33. Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
34. Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
35. Glutathione
36. Argania Spinosa Oil
37. Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
38. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
39. Tocopheryl Acetate
40. Acacia Seyal Gum Extract
41. Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
42. Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract
43. Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
44. Calcium Pca
45. Magnesium Pca
46. Sodium Hyaluronate
47. Sodium Polyacrylate
48. Xylitol
49. Caprylic Acid
50. Glyceryl Stearate
51. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
52. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
53. Phospholipids
54. Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
55. Disodium Edta
56. 1,2-Hexanediol
57. Butylene Glycol
58. Sodium Phosphate
59. Aqua
60. Maltodextrin
61. Potassium Sorbate
62. Phenoxyethanol
63. Chlorphenesin
64. Caprylyl Glycol
65. Ethylhexylglycerin
66. Mica
67. Barium Sulfate
68. Iron Oxides
69. Ci 77891

Highlights

Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains animal-derivedContains alcoholContains mineral oil

Key ingredients

SKIN CONDITIONING

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

SqualaneHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HUMECTANT

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Other ingredients

Pentapeptide-48Acetyl Octapeptide-3Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea TrifluoroacetatePalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl HydroxythreonineButyrospermum Parkii ButterHydrogenated LecithinPhenethyl AlcoholAscorbyl GlucosideTrehaloseBacillus/Folic Acid Ferment ExtractTranexamic AcidPassiflora Edulis Seed OilFructoseAesculus Hippocastanum ExtractHexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine AcetateDisodium PhosphateLecithinHydroxypropyl CyclodextrinCymbidium Grandiflorum Flower ExtractSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilJuniperus Communis Fruit ExtractAleurites Moluccanus Seed OilVitis Vinifera Seed OilSclerocarya Birrea Seed OilGlutathioneArgania Spinosa OilHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit ExtractTetrahexyldecyl AscorbateTocopheryl AcetateAcacia Seyal Gum ExtractSilybum Marianum Seed OilPorphyra Umbilicalis ExtractNannochloropsis Oculata ExtractCalcium PcaMagnesium PcaSodium HyaluronateSodium PolyacrylateXylitolCaprylic AcidGlyceryl StearateSodium Acrylates CopolymerHydrogenated PolyisobutenePhospholipidsPolyglyceryl-10 StearateDisodium Edta1,2-HexanediolButylene GlycolSodium PhosphateAquaMaltodextrinPotassium SorbatePhenoxyethanolChlorphenesinCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinMicaBarium SulfateIron OxidesCi 77891

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Lightweight natural oil with mineral oil-like feel; oxidizes easily, add antioxidants and control dose.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Pentapeptide-48

Not decoded yet

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl hexapeptide-8; signal peptide, low concentration, used for firming and hydration, low irritancy.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Peptide actives for skin conditioning; typically used at low levels.

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Not decoded yet

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl hexapeptide-8; signal peptide, low concentration, used for firming and hydration, low irritancy.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, a moisturizing peptide that enhances skin hydration via hydrolysis, typically mild, used to improve dryness

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl tripeptide; signaling peptide for collagen and antioxidants; 0.1-1% typical, light-sensitive

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Complex peptide precursor for skin conditioning; limited public data, follow supplier dosage.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Not decoded yet

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Phenethyl Alcohol

Alcohol with preservative and fragrance properties; 0.5-1%, floral scent, can replace some preservatives

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Trehalose

Trehalose; mild humectant and stabilizer for proteins/actives; hygroscopic, light skin feel.

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Extract

Not decoded yet

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid for skin brightening; generally mild at low external doses.

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Passionflower seed oil; emollient; prone to oxidation, needs protection.

Fructose

Strong humectant; high levels can increase viscosity and hygroscopicity.

Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract

Astringent/antioxidant for eye/sensitive formulas; contains saponins, use at 0.1–1% to avoid irritation.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate

Synthetic peptide for skin conditioning; small molecule, good penetration, low irritancy.

Disodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer for pH adjustment and preservation; water-soluble; high levels may irritate mucous membranes.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin to complex fragrances/actives; boosts solubility and stability.

Cymbidium Grandiflorum Flower Extract

Cymbidium flower extract for anti-wrinkle concepts, plant extract, low allergenic risk, requires purification.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract

Juniper berry extract for skin conditioning and fragrance; contains trace essential oils, watch for allergens.

Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil

Canarium oil, rich in oleic acid and antioxidants, used as emollient; prone to oxidation, add antioxidants

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Grapeseed oil, lightweight emollient and antioxidant; high linoleic acid, suitable for oily and combination skin.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Sclerocarya birrea seed oil; fatty acid-rich for hair and skin conditioning; requires antioxidants due to unsaturation.

Glutathione

Antioxidant and brightening agent; unstable, requires antioxidants and protection from light.

Argania Spinosa Oil

Argan oil for antioxidant/conditioning; moderate stability due to fatty profile.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Sea buckthorn fruit extract for skin conditioning; stable at low levels, check phototoxicity at high doses.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant and brightening; more stable than VC, oil-soluble, must pair with oil phase

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Natural plant gum humectant providing slip and film formation; high concentrations may affect rheology

Silybum Marianum Seed Oil

Milk thistle seed oil; silymarin-rich, antioxidant, high oil load, prone to oxidation

Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract

Marine algae extract; antioxidant concept; monitor heavy metals and stability.

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Microalgae extract for humectancy, antioxidant, and skin conditioning.

Calcium Pca

Not decoded yet

Magnesium Pca

Magnesium PCA; chelator and humectant with synergistic Mg/PCA action; low irritation, water-soluble.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sodium Polyacrylate

Superabsorbent resin, <1%; gels with electrolytes, ionic strength control required.

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Caprylic Acid

Medium-chain fatty acid with preservative boost and emulsification; distinct odor, irritant at high levels.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated polyisobutene; petroleum-derived lubricant forming breathable film; high purity, low irritation/comedogenicity.

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate emulsifier; multi-source, mild, co-emulsifier

Disodium Edta

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Sodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer and anti-seborrheic; pH regulator, aids sebum control, high levels are irritating

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Mica

Mineral colorant for pearlescence; heavy metal screening required

Barium Sulfate

Inert mineral filler and thickener; not absorbed by skin, avoid dust inhalation in powder processes

Iron Oxides

Inorganic pigment for color; particulate form, inhalation risk low in cosmetics.

Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide inorganic pigment and UV filter; assess inhalation risk for nano-forms and EU restrictions

Related products in this category

• be-better Be Better Age Defying Vitamin C Serum
• masque-ology MASQUE-OLOGY Vita-Collagen Dual Action Powder Mask + Cleanse
• hbl HBL Treatment Oil
• garnier Garnier Intensive 7 Days Hydrating Lotion
• lush Lush Oatifix Face Mask
• biologique-recherche Biologique Recherche Serum Elastine Pure