dermalogica Biolumin-c Gel Moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Aqua/Eau
2. Glycerin
3. Squalane
4. Propanediol
5. Butylene Glycol
6. PPG-24-Glycereth-24
7. Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
8. Hydroxyethyl Urea
9. Trehalose
10. Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
11. Allantoin
12. Hyaluronic Acid
13. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
14. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
15. Biosaccharide Gum-1
16. Ethylhexylglycerin
17. Sodium PCA
18. Sodium Levulinate
19. Ergothioneine
20. Beta-Carotene
21. Lactobacillus Ferment
22. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
23. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
24. Centella Asiatica Extract
25. Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
26. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
27. Verbascum Thapsus Extract
28. Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
29. Glycine Soja Oil
30. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
31. Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
32. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
33. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
34. Raspberry Ketone
35. Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
36. Santalum Album Oil
37. Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
38. Bisabolol
39. Cystine
40. Glycine
41. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
42. Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
43. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
44. Sodium Hyaluronate
45. Pentylene Glycol
46. Caprylyl Glycol
47. Tocopherol
48. Mannitol
49. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
50. Sodium Hydroxide
51. Phytic Acid
52. Citric Acid
53. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
54. C12-13 Pareth-3
55. Xanthan Gum
56. Sclerotium Gum
57. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
58. Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
59. Glyceryl Caprylate
60. P-Anisic Acid
61. Benzyl Glycol
62. Methylpropanediol
63. Sodium Benzoate
64. Potassium Sorbate
65. Limonene

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergensContains mineral oilContains PEGContains siliconesContains alcohol

Formulation view Oil-free gel moisturizer based on Glycerin and Squalane. Formulated with Vitamin C derivative and botanicals for antioxidant care. Uses Sodium Levulinate for preservation. Factory view: Oil-free texture is refreshing, but solubility of active ingredients in the aqueous phase must be monitored for stability.

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Squalane

SOLVENT

Propanediol

HUMECTANT

Butylene GlycolTrehalose

HAIR CONDITIONING

Hydroxyethyl Urea

ANTIOXIDANT

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Other ingredients

PPG-24-Glycereth-24Jojoba Wax PEG-120 EstersAllantoinHyaluronic AcidHydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidHydrolyzed Jojoba EstersBiosaccharide Gum-1EthylhexylglycerinSodium PCASodium LevulinateErgothioneineBeta-CaroteneLactobacillus FermentAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCentella Asiatica ExtractChamomilla Recutita Flower ExtractGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractVerbascum Thapsus ExtractLactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment ExtractGlycine Soja OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel ExtractCitrus Paradisi Peel OilHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilRaspberry KetoneJasminum Sambac Flower ExtractSantalum Album OilDaucus Carota Sativa Root ExtractBisabololCystineGlycineDipotassium GlycyrrhizateHydrolyzed GlycosaminoglycansSodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerSodium HyaluronatePentylene GlycolCaprylyl GlycolTocopherolMannitolTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateSodium HydroxidePhytic AcidCitric AcidPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilC12-13 Pareth-3Xanthan GumSclerotium GumPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Ascorbyl Methylsilanol PectinateGlyceryl CaprylateP-Anisic AcidBenzyl GlycolMethylpropanediolSodium BenzoatePotassium SorbateLimonene

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

PPG-24-Glycereth-24

Not decoded yet

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Not decoded yet

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Potent humectant and conditioner; high penetration, used for skin hydration and hair care

Trehalose

Trehalose; mild humectant and stabilizer for proteins/actives; hygroscopic, light skin feel.

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Stable Vitamin C derivative; water-soluble antioxidant and brightener, solubility pH-dependent

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Hyaluronic Acid

High-water-binding humectant at 0.1-1%; high-MW for surface film, low-MW for dermal potential, check cationic compatibility.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Low-MW humectant with superior penetration vs high-MW; 0.1-0.5% typical, hygroscopic, store dry to prevent clumping.

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Lightweight emollient and film-former; improves hair slip, generally low concentration.

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Biosaccharide Gum-1, fermented colloid for hydration and soothing, low comedogenic.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium levulinate, natural-derived humectant; generally mild, often used in blends.

Ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, potent antioxidant; 0.01–0.1%, water-soluble, synergizes with Vit C/E.

Beta-Carotene

Beta-carotene for color and antioxidants; oil-soluble, protect from oxidation and color change.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Probiotic ferment filtrate for conditioning; complex mix, check allergens and preservative residues

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Plant extract, soothing properties; contains natural allergens, high levels may irritate.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Verbascum Thapsus Extract

Not decoded yet

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Bioactive ferment extract for repair and soothing; verify stability at high levels

Glycine Soja Oil

Soybean oil emollient; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants; suitable for dry skin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Extract with essential oil content; acts as binder, emulsion stabilizer, conditioner, thickener, and perfuming agent. Potential allergen.

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; contains phototoxic furanocoumarins, limit concentration, strict sun protection required

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Raspberry Ketone

Natural raspberry ketone; acts as fragrance and skin conditioning agent; often added in trace amounts for specific claims.

Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Santalum Album Oil

Essential oil fragrance, restricted under EU 26; monitor sensitization and phototoxicity

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Carrot root extract with carotenoids; skin conditioning, low photosensitivity, may stain.

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Cystine

Disulfide bond amino acid for hair repair; mild sulfurous odor, consider masking.

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Hydrolyzed GAGs for hydration/conditioning; low MW, good penetration, low irritancy.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Crosslinked high-MW HA; forms surface hydrogel for long-lasting hydration, minimal penetration, physical film-forming.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Mannitol

Polyol humectant with binding/skin conditioning properties; high levels may cause osmotic irritation

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Phytic Acid

Natural chelator for formula stability; acidic, may shift pH at high levels.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.

C12-13 Pareth-3

Not decoded yet

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Sclerotium Gum

Non-ionic gum for gels; neutral pH, requires dissolution via heating or fine milling

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate

Silicon-based Vitamin C derivative for antioxidant activity and viscosity control; superior stability compared to traditional Vitamin C, suitable for formulation.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

P-Anisic Acid

Fragrance/preservative booster; odorous, low usage, patch test recommended

Benzyl Glycol

Solvent and viscosity regulator; aids solubility of actives, slight preservative boost

Methylpropanediol

Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

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