cipher Night Shift (2023)

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Niacinamide
3. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
4. Isodecyl Neopentanoate
5. Propanediol
6. Alpha-Arbutin
7. Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
8. Glycereth-26
9. Undecane
10. Glyceryl Stearate
11. PEG-100 Stearate
12. Diheptyl Succinate
13. Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
14. Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
15. Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
16. Tridecane
17. Plankton Extract
18. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
19. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
20. Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
21. Glycerin
22. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
23. Xylitylglucoside
24. Glabridin
25. Madecassoside
26. Beta-Glucan
27. Panthenol
28. Cetyl Alcohol
29. Olive Glycerides
30. Anhydroxylitol
31. Xylitol
32. Tocopherol
33. Bisabolol
34. Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
35. Hydroxyacetophenone
36. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
37. Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
38. Lecithin
39. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
40. Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
41. Disodium EDTA
42. Phenoxyethanol
43. Ethylhexylglycerin
44. Lactic Acid

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains PEGContains mineral oil

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SKIN CONDITIONING

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Isodecyl NeopentanoateCannabis Sativa Seed Oil

ANTIOXIDANT

Alpha-Arbutin

HUMECTANT

Glycereth-26

Other ingredients

UndecaneGlyceryl StearatePEG-100 StearateDiheptyl SuccinateGlyceryl Oleate CitrateEuterpe Oleracea Fruit OilHydroxypropyl Starch PhosphateTridecanePlankton ExtractGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractChlorella Vulgaris ExtractHaematococcus Pluvialis ExtractGlycerinPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38XylitylglucosideGlabridinMadecassosideBeta-GlucanPanthenolCetyl AlcoholOlive GlyceridesAnhydroxylitolXylitolTocopherolBisabololZingiber Officinale Root ExtractHydroxyacetophenoneCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid CopolymerLecithinPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Hydroxypropyl CyclodextrinDisodium EDTAPhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerinLactic Acid

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

SKIN CONDITIONING

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Volatile dry ester for make-up/emulsions; fast-drying, non-greasy, seal to prevent weight loss.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Alpha-Arbutin

Whitening antioxidant, inhibits tyrosinase; use 1-2%, avoid strong acids

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Hemp seed oil, non-psychoactive, emollient for skin and hair; high linoleic acid, needs antioxidants

Glycereth-26

Glycereth-26, humectant/viscosity modifier at 1–5%; non-ionic water-soluble, boosts stability and feel.

Undecane

Undecane; light aliphatic hydrocarbon emollient; high volatility, pair with occlusives, flammable

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Diheptyl Succinate

Light emollient ester; refreshing non-greasy feel, often replaces heavier mineral oils.

Glyceryl Oleate Citrate

Emulsifier, with cleansing and moisturizing functions

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Euterpe oleifera fruit oil; rich in oleic and palmitic acids for conditioning

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Thickener and bulking agent for creams; 1-5%, avoid cationic systems

Tridecane

Tridecane, a long-chain alkane acting as emollient and solvent; petrochemical-derived, inert and low toxicity.

Plankton Extract

Plankton extract for skin conditioning; low concentrations typical, ensure source purity to avoid microbial contamination.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Haematococcus pluvialis extract rich in astaxanthin; potent antioxidant; used in anti-aging and photoprotection formulas.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl tripeptide; signaling peptide for collagen and antioxidants; 0.1-1% typical, light-sensitive

Xylitylglucoside

Polyol humectant with high water absorption and fresh feel; often co-used with propylene glycol for enhanced hydration.

Glabridin

Not decoded yet

Madecassoside

Triterpenoid glycoside with soothing, repairing, and antioxidant effects; typical concentration 0.1-1%, suitable for sensitive or compromised skin, good stability.

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Olive Glycerides

Olive-derived mono/diglycerides as auxiliary O/W emulsifiers and emollients; screen olive-allergy risk.

Anhydroxylitol

Anhydrous xylitol, potent humectant; high hygroscopicity may cause stickiness at high levels.

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Root extract for scent and toning; may irritate compromised skin.

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Film-forming conditioner for hair/skin protection; hydrophobic, pair with water phase

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin to complex fragrances/actives; boosts solubility and stability.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

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